To attract bats to a new house, mount a well-built box high, sun-warmed, and near open flight paths with water and steady night temps.
Bats move in when a roost feels safe, warm, and easy to reach. This guide shows you exactly how to set up a new bat house so it gets noticed and used. You’ll learn where to mount it, which designs work, what colors keep chambers at the right temperature, and what to skip. By the end, you can act with confidence and avoid months of trial and error.
How To Attract Bats To A New House: Quick Steps
- Choose a proven, multi-chamber design with rough interiors and ¾-inch spacing.
- Mount 12–20 feet above ground on a pole or building; skip trees.
- Pick sun: aim for 6–8 hours of direct light, with morning sun a priority.
- Face south to southeast in most regions; adjust by climate.
- Keep a clear approach: at least 20 feet of open air in front.
- Place near natural edges and water if you can.
- Seal all seams, add vents, and paint or stain the exterior for temp control.
- Install guards against snakes/raccoons and keep lights away.
- Be patient; occupancy can take one or more seasons.
Placement At A Glance
Use this snapshot to set the odds in your favor early. It condenses the siting rules that drive real results.
| Factor | Target Or Rule |
|---|---|
| Height | 12–20 ft above ground |
| Sun | 6–8 hours; morning sun preferred |
| Orientation | South/Southeast in temperate zones |
| Mounting | Pole or building; avoid trees |
| Clear Flight Space | ≥ 20 ft open air in front |
| Nearby Water | Helpful within a short flight |
| Lighting | No bright porch/security lights |
| Human Traffic | Not above doors or windows |
| Predator Risk | Guards on pole; no low branches |
Choose A Bat House That Bats Actually Use
A new bat house only works if the design matches what bats prefer. Small gift-shop boxes fail because they run cold, lack texture, or have gaps that cause drafts. Look for boxes at least 24 inches tall and 14 inches wide with rough interior baffles. Chambers should be ¾ inch apart, with a textured landing area at the base. Multi-chamber models hold heat better and suit maternity groups.
Heat, Vents, And Seals
Warmth is the anchor. Tight seams, a dark exterior in cool regions, and a light exterior in hot zones keep internal temps in the sweet spot. Horizontal vents near the lower third shed heat on hot days. Caulk the roofline and backboard to stop air leaks. A drip edge on the roof helps the box last through storms.
Finish And Color By Climate
Color sets the microclimate. In cooler areas, use a darker paint or stain on the exterior. In warmer zones, pick medium to light tones. Always leave interiors bare and rough. Pre-drill and use exterior-grade screws; glue critical joints so the box doesn’t warp.
Attracting Bats To A New Bat House — Rules That Work
Mounting location makes or breaks success. Pick a sun-soaked spot on a pole or building with a clean approach path. Trees look tempting, but shade, cluttered branches, and predators stack the odds against you. Keep any nearby lights off; bright bulbs push bats away from a roost.
Height, Orientation, And Sun
Set the bracket so the bottom edge sits at least 12 feet up. Go higher if you can. Aim the front toward the morning sun; south or southeast works across much of the map. Where nights run cool, more sun helps. Where summer bakes, vents and a lighter finish keep temps in range.
Open Air In Front
Bats need room to swoop. Leave a 20-foot runway of clear space. Keep the box away from heavy foliage, utility wires, and roof eaves that could block flight. A calm, open face also helps hawks and owls overlook the roost, which lowers stress for bats arriving at dusk.
Near Edges And Water
Edges concentrate insects and serve as travel lines. Mount near a treeline edge, over a field, or along a shoreline. You don’t need a pond on the property, but roosts near water often see more traffic at dusk and dawn.
Build A Simple Site Plan
Map your yard and mark sun patterns, evening shadows, and air paths. Note any porch lights that stay on at night. Choose two mounting options (primary and backup) so you can pivot if the first spot runs too cool or too hot after a few weeks of monitoring.
Hardware And Mounting
Use a sturdy pole or a lag-screw bracket on a garage or shed. Stainless or coated hardware resists rust. Add a predator guard on poles to block snakes and raccoons. If you must place two houses, mount them back-to-back on the same pole, one facing south and one facing north or east; this gives bats day-to-day temperature choices.
Keep It Dark At Night
Lights near the entrance cut visits. If security lighting is unavoidable, use motion sensors aimed away and shielded. Avoid blue-white bulbs; warm bulbs at low output draw fewer insects to the wrong place and reduce glare at the roost.
Smart Temperature Management
Internal temperature swings are the top reason a new bat house goes empty. Paint or stain only the exterior, and tune the color to local highs and lows. Add vents and, in very hot sites, a small attic gap under the roof cap to vent heat. In cold, wind-prone spots, wider boxes with more chambers hold warmth better.
When To Install
Set the box in late winter or spring so local bats can check it during early nightly flights. If you’re moving bats out of a building with exclusion, time the install so the new roost is ready before you seal entry points, outside of pup season.
What To Expect In Year One
Some sites see visitors within weeks; many take a full warm season or longer. That’s normal. Bats stick with known roosts until weather or disturbance pushes them to sample new options. Don’t move the house every month. Give it a season unless you confirm it’s running too hot or too cold.
Care, Cleaning, And Safety
Bat houses are low-maintenance. Once a year, check screws, caulk, and the roof cap. Make sure wasps haven’t built heavy nests in early spring; remove them at night when the box is empty. Wear gloves and a dust mask if you need to clean the landing board. Keep ground beneath the roost clear, and avoid placing patio seating directly under the entrance.
Health And Respect
Do not handle bats. If one lands on the ground or enters a living space, contact local wildlife staff. Keep pets indoors at dusk and dawn around the roost area. Teach kids to watch from a distance. Simple habits keep bats and people safe.
Common Myths That Waste Time
- Sprays and “bat attractants.” Claims are bold; results are weak. Bats pick roosts for heat, safety, and access, not bottled scents.
- Any box will do. Tiny boxes chill fast, crack, and draft. Size, texture, and sealing matter.
- Trees are best. Shade, branch clutter, and predators make trees a poor bet for a new install.
- More boxes everywhere. A few well-sited units beat a scatter of cold, shaded ones.
Troubleshooting: Why Bats Haven’t Moved In (Yet)
Use this quick diagnostic. Change one variable at a time and give each adjustment several weeks, since nightly use can swing with weather and prey.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| No sign after one warm season | Box too cool or shaded | Shift to more sun; darken exterior |
| Wasps inside | Low occupancy + easy entry | Clear nests early spring; seal gaps |
| Heat stress in midsummer | Box too hot | Add vents; lighten exterior; add second box with cooler aspect |
| Scratches near landing, no guano | Predator pressure | Install pole guard; move away from trees |
| Heavy lights nearby | Light avoidance | Shield or relocate lights; use sensors |
| Drafts felt at seams | Poor sealing | Caulk roofline and backboard; tighten screws |
| Thin scratching sound only | Single scout visits | Stay patient; avoid moving the box too soon |
Add A Bat-Friendly Yard
A dialed-in bat house helps, and a food-rich yard speeds visits. Plant native night-bloomers and keep a small water source clean. Skip yard foggers and broad-spectrum sprays that wipe out prey. Leave a few snag-like features where safe; bats forage along edges and snags as they hunt.
Water Without The Hazards
Shallow pans with stones let insects gather and bats sip on the wing. Keep water fresh. Tall, slick-sided troughs trap wildlife; avoid them or add escape ramps.
Exact Keyword In Real Use
If you’re weighing how to attract bats to a new house on a small lot, place one box on a sunny pole with a clear flight lane and keep a second option ready on a warm wall. Rotate only after a full season of testing.
On acreage, how to attract bats to a new house often means pairing two boxes at one pole—one sun-heavy, one cooler—near a field edge with a pond within a short flight.
Quick Build Or Buy Tips
- Buy smart: Choose designs certified by a respected bat group, sized to at least 24 inches tall and 14 inches wide.
- Texture matters: Interior grooves or rough-sawn baffles help tiny toes grip.
- Open bottoms: Prevents guano buildup and lowers parasite issues.
- Landing board: At least 3 inches of rough surface under the entrance aids clean landings.
- Seal and finish: Exterior-grade caulk and paint boost warmth and lifespan.
When You’re Relocating Bats From A Building
If you plan humane exclusion from an attic or shed, time the work outside pup season and have new roosts ready nearby. Mount two or more sturdy houses before you seal entry points so returning adults can find a legal option fast. Coordinate with local wildlife staff if laws apply in your area.
The Takeaway
You win bats with heat, height, and access. Pick a proven box, mount it high on a sunny pole or wall, keep lights away, and let the seasons do their work. Tweak color and vents by climate, guard against predators, and grow a yard rich in night insects. That mix sets your new roost up for steady dusk fly-outs.
Helpful references for deeper reading: See bat house guidelines and the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service’s note on how and whether to install bat boxes for design and siting details.