To fix a leaky Delta faucet, shut water off, replace the worn cartridge or seats-and-springs, and reassemble with new O-rings.
Drips add up fast and make a sink harder to use. This guide shows how to fix a leaky Delta faucet at home with clear steps and links to official parts pages. You’ll find quick checks, a full repair walkthrough, and tips to make the fix last.
Quick Diagnosis: Where The Drip Starts
Start by spotting the leak. Water from the spout points to a worn cartridge or seats and springs. Moisture around the handle hints at an O-ring or packing issue. Puddles under the deck can mean loose supply lines or a split hose. Take a minute to watch the faucet while it runs and right after you close it.
Delta Faucet Leak Clues And Fast Checks
The table below maps common symptoms to the likely cause and a quick first step. It saves time before you open the body of the faucet.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | First Step |
|---|---|---|
| Drip from spout after shutoff | Worn cartridge or worn seats/springs | Shut stops, open handle to bleed, plan cartridge or seats swap |
| Water around handle | Dry or nicked stem O-ring, loose bonnet | Snug bonnet; replace and grease O-ring |
| Puddle under sink | Loose supply nut or split pull-down hose | Quarter-turn snug on nuts; inspect and replace hose |
| Leak from dome/cap | Backed-off adjusting ring | Nudge ring tighter with needle-nose pliers |
| Drip changes when handle moves | Failing cartridge | Replace cartridge and flush valve body |
| Steady drip with loose handle feel | Tired seats and springs | Swap seats/springs; spring fat-side down |
| Weep at spout base | Worn spout O-rings | Lift spout, replace and grease O-rings |
| Low flow after repair | Aerator debris | Rinse or soak aerator screen |
How to Fix a Leaky Delta Faucet: Tools And Prep
Before you begin, shut the hot and cold stops under the sink. Turn the handle on to release pressure, then plug the drain so small parts can’t fall in. Lay a towel in the sink to protect the finish and to catch drips. Keep parts in order as you remove them.
Basic tools include a Phillips screwdriver, a 3⁄32-inch Allen key for most set screws, an adjustable wrench, needle-nose pliers, a pick tool or small flat blade for seats, plumber’s grease, and a roll of thread seal tape for supply threads. Have a new cartridge for DST models (RP50587), or a seats-and-springs kit (RP4993) for ball-type valves, plus new O-rings if the spout seeps.
Fixing A Leaky Delta Faucet: Step-By-Step
- Shut water at both stops. Open the handle to relieve pressure.
- Remove the handle. Pry off the cap and loosen the set screw with the Allen key. Lift the handle off.
- Take off the dome/bonnet. Keep it upright so you don’t scratch the finish.
- Lift out internals. On DST styles, pull the cartridge straight up; on older models, remove the ball and cam. Snap a quick photo for reference.
- Swap sealing parts. Pull the rubber seats and springs with a pick on ball valves. On DST, note the cartridge tabs so the new one aligns.
- Flush grit. Rinse the valve body. Briefly crack each stop and flush into a cup to push debris out.
- Install new parts. Grease O-rings. Set new springs fat-side down, then press seats over them. Press the new cartridge in straight.
- Reassemble. Install the bonnet nut hand-tight, then snug with a wrench. Don’t over-torque. Refit the handle and cap.
- Test. Open the stops, check for drips, and cycle hot to cold. If a slow seep remains on a dome-style unit, snug the adjusting ring a touch.
Know Your Valve Style
You’ll see two common internals on single-handle Delta units. DST models use the RP50587 style cartridge with diamond-embedded ceramic surfaces. Older one-handle designs use a stainless ball with two rubber seats and two tapered springs under them. Two-handle bathroom models use individual stem units in each body. Identify yours before you shop, since parts are not interchangeable.
Not sure which you own? Pull the handle cap, then the handle, and look under the dome. If you see a single plastic cartridge with locating tabs, it’s DST. If you see a metal ball with a cam and packing, it’s a ball valve. Two separate handles mean two stems. Snap a photo at each stage so you can match parts later.
Stopping Leaks At The Spout Base
Water weeping where the spout meets the body points to a worn pair of O-rings on the spout shank. Shut the stops, remove the handle and dome, then lift the spout straight up. Roll the old O-rings off with a pick. Clean the groove, grease new rings, and press the spout back down with a slow twist so the grease spreads evenly.
Pull-Down Sprayer Drips And Hose Seepage
If the spray head leaks around the button, swap the head. If water collects under the sink, check the hose weight and quick-connect. The clip should snap fully and the O-ring at the connector should be smooth, not nicked. Replace the hose if the braid frays or the inner tube cracks.
Fixing Low Flow After The Repair
Mineral grit knocked loose during the rebuild can lodge in the aerator. Unthread the aerator by hand, tap the screen, rinse, and thread it back on. If the spray head sputters on a pull-down model, soak the screen washer from the head in warm vinegar and rinse clean.
When You Don’t Know The Model
Delta keeps part kits consistent across long product lines, so you can fix many units without a full model code. If you’re unsure, match the silhouette on the brand’s parts finder and cross-check the exploded diagram for your handle style and spout mount. Bring the old cartridge or seats to a parts counter if you want a live match. Use the official tool here: Find Parts and Identify Your Product.
Cartridge vs. Seats And Springs
Newer single-handle kitchen and bath faucets with DIAMOND Seal Technology use a one-piece cartridge. Older single-handle units use a ball with two rubber seats and tapered springs. Both can leak at the spout when the internal seals wear or grit nicks a sealing surface. If the handle feels stiff or the drip changes when you move the handle, the cartridge is the likely suspect. If the leak is steady and the handle feels loose, seats and springs may be the fast win.
Fine Tuning After Reassembly
Small drips after a rebuild often come from a slightly loose bonnet nut or an adjusting ring that backed off. Snug the bonnet a quarter turn. On dome-style units, use needle-nose pliers to turn the adjusting ring just enough to stop the seep.
Care Tips That Stop The Next Drip
Hard water leaves scale that chews through seals. Wipe the spout dry after use. Every six months, rotate the aerator off and rinse the screen. If the handle stiffens, add a dab of plumber’s grease to the stem O-ring during the next deep clean. Avoid harsh lime removers on plated parts; a mild vinegar soak on the aerator is safer.
Common Errors To Avoid
Skipping the shutoff floods cabinets. Leaving the drain open swallows screws. Forcing the bonnet scars the finish and can crack thin trim. Mixing up spring orientation keeps the seats from sealing. Over-tight threads on supply lines can crush a gasket and start a new leak.
Parts Guide And Replacement Windows
This section calls out popular Delta kits, where they fit, and signs that tell you it’s time to swap them. Keep spares on hand if your water is hard or you live in an area with fine grit in the lines.
| Part/Kit | Where It Fits | Signs To Replace |
|---|---|---|
| RP50587 cartridge | Single-handle DST kitchen/bath | Drip that changes with handle move, stiff feel |
| RP4993 seats & springs | Older ball-type single-handle | Steady drip, loose handle feel |
| Spout O-ring set | Kitchen and bath spout shanks | Weep at spout base, crusty ring marks |
| Aerator / screen washer | Spout outlet or spray head | Low flow, spray pattern stray jets |
| Pull-down hose & head | Kitchen pull-down models | Wet cabinet, head drip, frayed braid |
| Bonnet / dome seal | Under handle cap | Moisture under cap or at dome edge |
| Stem units (2-handle) | Hot and cold tap bodies | Side drip from a single tap |
| Supply lines | Stops to faucet | Recurring puddles, cracked lining |
FAQ-Free Fix Checklist
Shut water. Open handle to bleed pressure. Plug the drain. Remove handle and bonnet. Swap the cartridge on DST or seats and springs on ball-type. Grease O-rings. Reassemble and snug. Open stops and test both hot and cold. This is the short path to a dry spout without guesswork.
Why Fixing The Drip Pays Off
That steady plink isn’t only a sound. A slow leak wastes gallons each week and raises the bill. EPA WaterSense statistics show household leaks can add up to serious waste, so a simple repair makes a real dent in usage and cost.
Time, Cost, And Skill Level
A basic DST cartridge swap usually takes 20–30 minutes. Seats and springs on a ball valve are similar. Plan an hour if you’ve never opened a faucet. Most kits cost less than a service call and less than a new fixture. You’ll save more than the price of parts by cutting water waste.
Pro Tips That Make The Job Easy
- Cover the drain and keep small parts in a cup in removal order.
- Break the bonnet nut free with a straight pull to avoid finish damage.
- Grease O-rings lightly; a heavy smear attracts grit.
- On DST bodies, push the cartridge in straight so tabs seat before you tighten.
If It Still Drips After New Parts
Drips after new parts often point to grit in the valve body or a mis-seated seat. Pop the parts back out, flush the body, and reseat the spring fat-side down. Check that the cartridge tabs sit in the recesses. Snug the bonnet and test again. If the dome weeps, nudge the adjusting ring slightly.
Finding Your Exact Parts Online
The brand’s parts finder lets you choose by product family and trim so you can pull up an exploded view and cart the right kit. Match your handle shape and spout style, then scroll to the parts section for the cartridge, O-rings, springs, and specialized seals. If matching by sight feels tricky, contact support and include photos. You can also read Delta’s seat/spring steps here: RP4993 repair steps.
Safety And Clean-Up
Use eye protection when you flush the valve body. Wipe up spills so cleaner doesn’t spot the deck. Dry the cabinet floor and set a tray under the stops during the test run. Recycle the old cartridge if accepted by your local program, or place it in the trash.
Learning How To Fix A Leaky Delta Faucet The Smart Way
If you searched how to fix a leaky delta faucet, you’re in the right place. This guide keeps steps tight and avoids guesswork so you can finish the job with a clear plan and the right parts.
When The Search Is How To Fix A Leaky Delta Faucet Fast
Store runs slow the project. Keep a spare RP50587 or RP4993 kit in a drawer. That way you can swap parts the same day a drip starts, even on a weekend.
Supply Lines, Mix Ups, And When To Call A Pro
Supply lines can fool you. If water pools only under the stops, shut water and snug the compression nuts a quarter turn. If the leak returns, replace the lines with braided stainless hoses sized to your valves. Temperature mix troubles after a rebuild come from reversed supply lines or a scald guard set too low. Flip the lines at the stops if hot and cold feel swapped. On many single-handle bath valves, lift the handle and adjust the limit stop per the install sheet so you still get a warm shower without scald risk. If the body is cracked, threads are stripped, or corrosion froze parts in place, call a plumber. The rest of the time, this is a doable home repair.