To replace a cooker element, cut power at the breaker, remove the old element, fit the matching part, reconnect, and test heat.
When an oven will not heat, the lower or upper heating bar is often the culprit. This guide shows clear, safe steps that a home DIYer can follow. You will see the parts you need, the checks to run, and the order of work.
Tools And Materials You Will Need
Getting your kit ready keeps the job tidy and short. Pick a like-for-like element for your model number.
| Item | Purpose | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Replacement bake or grill element | Supplies heat | Match part by model and shape |
| Phillips and flat screwdrivers | Remove panels and screws | Short shaft helps in tight spaces |
| Nut driver set | Back panel or bracket bolts | Common sizes 1/4" and 5/16" |
| Needle-nose pliers | Pull spade terminals | Grip wires without damage |
| Multimeter | Check continuity and voltage | Ohms mode is enough for elements |
| Work gloves | Protect hands | Edges inside the cavity can be sharp |
| Flashlight | Light the oven cavity | A headlamp frees both hands |
| Masking tape & pen | Label wires | Prevents mix-ups during re-fit |
How To Replace A Cooker Element: Full Walkthrough
1) Kill Power And Confirm It Is Off
Switch off the range breaker. If the cord plugs in, pull the plug as well. Open the oven and verify no lights or display are on. Use a meter to confirm no voltage at the element terminals before you touch anything. If you have any doubt, stop and call a pro.
2) Remove Racks And Reach The Element
Slide out the racks. If the bake bar sits on the floor, remove the retaining screws at the back wall. If it hides under a bottom panel, lift that panel first. Some models route the element leads through the rear of the cavity; others pass through to the back cover.
3) Label And Disconnect The Wires
Before you pull spade connectors, mark left and right with tape. Use pliers on the metal terminal, not the wire. If a slip-on is stubborn, warm it with a hair dryer, then try again.
4) Check The Old Element
Look for breaks, pits, bubbles, or burn marks. Set your meter to ohms and test end-to-end. A healthy bake bar often reads between 20–40 Ω, while grill/broil bars sit lower. Infinite resistance means it is open and must be replaced. If the bar checks out but the oven still will not heat, the relay, thermostat, or wiring could be at fault.
5) Fit The New Element
Match the bends and bracket holes to your old part. Slide the shanks through the wall, attach the screws, and connect the spade terminals firmly. Loose connections can arc. Tuck extra wire neatly so it will not rest on hot metal. Refit the bottom panel if your model uses one.
6) Restore Power And Test
Turn the breaker back on. Set the oven to bake to 180 °C (350 °F). The bar should glow dull red within a few minutes. Watch for smoke from factory oils; a brief odor on first heat is normal. If it trips the breaker or stays cold, cut power and recheck your work.
Replacing An Oven Heating Element Safely At Home
A steady method keeps risk low. Never work live. Keep one hand clear when you test. If your model includes a hidden bake tray or twin elements, add time for panel removal. Many brands publish short how-to videos and service notes to guide you. Manufacturer advice helps you match parts and torque, and it shows small layout cues that save time.
Safety Notes You Should Not Skip
- Stand the range away from the wall so the power cord and rear panel are easy to reach.
- Use a meter every time before touching a terminal. Trust the reading, not the display.
- If you smell melting insulation, stop and inspect the harness.
- Never swap to a higher wattage bar. Use the part that matches your model and rating plate.
Brand pages carry model-specific clips. GE bake element guidance covers common electric ranges, and the UK charity Electrical Safety First oven advice explains safe use and upkeep. Those two sources add helpful context for home repairs and safe habits today.
Diagnosing Before You Buy Parts
Many ovens use a lower bake bar for most heat and an upper grill/broil bar for top browning. If the bake bar fails, the oven often heats weakly or not at all. Before you order parts, run a quick check list.
Rapid Checks
- Set to bake and watch the lower bar. No glow and no heat points to a failed bar or control path.
- Set to grill/broil. If the top bar glows, your supply is live and the issue is local to the bake path.
- Run the meter on the element leads with power off. Low ohms is good; open circuit is bad.
- Inspect spade connectors for dark spots or slack fit. Replace burnt terminals.
Common Fit Pitfalls
Small mismatches can cause headaches. Shank length, bend radius, and bracket hole spacing must match. If your new bar is a universal type, you may need extra screws or spacers. Do not bend a new element by hand; you can crack the sheath.
Picking The Right Replacement Part
Match wattage, shape, and terminal style to your model sticker. The rating plate sits on the door frame or behind the drawer. Note the brand, full model code, and any suffix. Look at the bends in the old bar and count the mounting holes; even small changes can keep a part from sitting flat. If your old bar used screw studs, do not swap to push-in tabs unless your range shows that option in its parts list.
When you shop, search both the OEM part number and any approved substitutes. Many parts houses list cross-refs so you can pick a bar that fits and heats as designed. Avoid generic parts with unknown ratings. A bargain that runs too hot or cold will cause poor bakes and can trip safety cut-outs.
Continuity And Resistance Tips
Unplug or switch off first, then pull one lead off the bar so you are not reading back through the control. Touch meter probes to each terminal. A steady ohms value shows an intact coil. If the needle or digits jump around, clean the terminals and test again. No reading means the bar is open. If you see near-zero ohms, the coil is shorted and unsafe to use.
Wire Colors, Terminals, And Mounts
Ranges vary, but some patterns repeat. Spade terminals are common. Many models mount with two screws through the rear wall bracket. Hidden-bake designs place the bar under a panel with tabs at the rear and a shield over the front. Keep screws in a tray; they are easy to lose in the insulation.
Costs, Time, And When To Call A Pro
Most bake bars cost a modest sum and swap in under an hour once you have access. Call a licensed tech if your meter shows erratic readings, the harness is scorched, or the control board shows damage. Safety beats speed every time.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Next Step |
|---|---|---|
| No heat in bake | Open bake bar | Test continuity; replace bar |
| Trips breaker on heat | Short to chassis | Inspect terminals and insulation |
| Uneven browning | One bar failed | Check top and bottom bars |
| Slow preheat | Weak supply or bad sensor | Check supply, sensor, and seals |
| Smoke on first run | Oil burn-off | Pre-burn at 200 °C for 15 minutes |
| Bar glows then dies | Loose spade | Crimp or replace terminal |
| Display on, no heat | Failed relay or board | Seek service if out of scope |
Care Tips So Elements Last Longer
Keep the oven clean. Foil that touches a bar can reflect heat back and shorten life. Use cookware that suits the size of the job. Avoid heavy bumps when you pull trays. Do not wash a hot bar with a wet cloth; thermal shock can crack the sheath.
Model-Specific Notes And Hidden-Bake Variants
Some modern ranges use a hidden lower bar. You will lift the floor panel, then a shield, before you see the part. Screws may be Torx. Keep track with a small parts tray and take a phone photo at each step so re-fit is simple. If your door has a lock for self-clean, keep it unlocked while you work so you can open and close the door during tests.
Two Key Phrases To Remember
First: never work live. Second: match parts by model number. If you follow those two rules, the rest of the method falls into place.
Can You Apply This To Grill/Broil Bars Too?
Yes. The upper bar uses the same spade leads and mounts. Access is easier because it sits in view. Test, swap, and heat-cycle the same way. Watch clearances near the top liner and light cover.
Putting It All Together
If you came looking for how to replace a cooker element, you now have a clear plan. Start with power off, then access, label, test, swap, and test again. With the right part and a calm pace, most home cooks can finish this in one short session at home safely. If anything feels off, pause and get a qualified tech to check your range.
Many readers type how to replace a cooker element when the oven stops dead after a pop or flash. That symptom often marks an open bar. Your meter and a quick visual will confirm it fast. From there, the steps in this page guide you through a clean swap and a safe heat-up.