To cut in door hinges, mark true locations, score the outline, chisel a leaf-thick mortise, pre-drill, then hang and test the swing.
Cutting in hinge mortises is a quick win that makes a door feel solid and swing true. This guide shows clear steps, tool options, and the small checks that prevent binding, sagging, and ugly gaps. You’ll see standard hinge sizes, placement ranges, and foolproof marking methods before you make the first cut.
How To Cut In Hinges For A Door: Tools And Setup
Set the workspace first. Support the door flat on padded sawhorses. Add eye protection and hearing protection if you’ll run a trim router or drill. Lay out every part within reach so you’re not chasing tools mid-cut.
Core Tools
- Sharp 1" or 3/4" bench chisel and a mallet
- Marking knife or sharp pencil; combination square
- Utility knife for crisp scoring
- Trim router with a 1/4" straight bit (optional)
- Hinge template/jig (optional but fast)
- Drill/driver with pilot bit and a Vix bit (self-centering)
- Painter’s tape and a flush-cut pull-saw (for tiny corrections)
Fast Reference: Sizes, Placement, And Prep
The table below pulls the common hinge sizes, door thickness matches, and where you’ll usually place each hinge. It helps you pick the right hardware and mark accurate centers before you cut.
| Hinge Size | Door Thickness & Use | Typical Placement |
|---|---|---|
| 3.5" x 3.5" | 1-3/8" interior doors | Top ~5–7" from top; bottom ~9–11" from bottom; center between |
| 4" x 4" | Heavier 1-3/4" interior or light exterior | Same offsets; add third hinge for weight |
| 4.5" x 4.5" | Solid core/exterior; heavier slabs | Three hinges standard; equal spacing |
| Spring hinge 3.5"–4.5" | Self-closing rooms/garages | Use per label; pair with standard hinge if needed |
| Ball-bearing hinges | Smooth swing on heavy doors | Follow same layout; confirm leaf thickness |
| Narrow/loose-pin variants | Light utility or screen doors | Use two; add third if racked |
| Template hinges (ANSI) | Standardized screw pattern | Match to template spec for exact hole spacing |
Cutting In Hinges For A Door: Step-By-Step
This section walks you through accurate marking, clean mortising, and a stress-free hang. The flow works whether you’re using a chisel or a compact router with a guide plate.
1) Choose Hinge Size And Count
Pick 3.5" hinges for most 1-3/8" interior slabs. Step up to 4" or 4.5" for heavier or thicker doors. Use three hinges once the door gets dense or tall. If you’re swapping hardware, measure the old leaf height and the mortise depth so the new leaf drops in without rework.
2) Mark Standard Hinge Locations
Common practice sets the top hinge about 5–7 inches down from the top of the door and the bottom hinge about 9–11 inches up from the bottom. A third hinge lands centered between those two. Mark the same positions on the jamb so everything lines up. These ranges are widely used by hardware pros and give solid support for most slabs.
3) Trace The Leaf
With the door on sawhorses, hold a hinge where you marked it and scribe around the leaf with a knife. Keep the back of the leaf flush with the door edge. Strike the ends first, then the long back line. A knife beats a pencil here; it prevents tear-out and gives the chisel a shoulder to bite against.
4) Score The Outline
Deepen the knife line to the full leaf thickness. Run the knife in two or three passes; don’t try to do it all at once. Lay painter’s tape just outside the line if you want a built-in splinter guard.
5) Set Depth With A Chisel
Stand the chisel in the knife line, bevel toward the waste, and tap lightly to form a crisp wall. Then pare across the grain in thin slices until you reach leaf thickness. Keep the floor flat so the hinge sits flush with the door face. If you see fibers lifting, score again and take smaller bites.
6) Or, Rout The Pocket
If you use a trim router, clamp a hinge template to the door and set the bit depth to a hair under the leaf thickness. Take shallow passes and clean the corners with a chisel. A template gives repeatable pockets across all positions.
7) Pre-Drill And Mount
Seat the hinge in the pocket and mark screw holes. A self-centering Vix bit keeps the screws dead center so the hinge doesn’t shift. Drive the screws snug, not over-tight. If one hole gets sloppy, glue in a wood matchstick, flush cut, and re-drill.
8) Transfer The Layout To The Jamb
Set the door tight against the jamb with a 1/8"–3/16" gap at the head. Use playing cards as instant spacers. Trace the hinge leaves on the jamb, then repeat the same mortising steps. Keep the jamb pockets square and to the same depth.
9) Hang And Test
Mount the top hinge leaf first, then the bottom, then the middle. Drop the pins and test the swing. You’re aiming for even gaps and no rubs. If the latch side kisses the stop, adjust the hinge set as shown in the fixes section below.
Quick Safety And Standards You Can Trust
Eye protection is a must when chiseling or routing. Jobsite rules call for Z87.1-rated eyewear. You can read the OSHA eye and face protection requirement here: OSHA 1910.133. For hardware geometry and screw patterns used by many manufacturers, see the BHMA A156 series highlights, which summarize the hinge templating and related standards.
Layout Details That Prevent Problems
Leaf Thickness = Mortise Depth
Your mortise floor should match the thickness of one hinge leaf. Too shallow and the door binds at the back of the hinge. Too deep and the barrel pulls into the door edge, racking the slab.
Backset And Reveal
The back of the hinge leaf sits flush with the door edge, not proud and not short. The reveal along the latch side should stay even top to bottom once the door is hung. Small shims behind the hinge leaf can tune this if the jamb is out of plumb.
Equal Spacing For Three Hinges
When you use three hinges, split the space evenly. That spreads load, keeps the door quiet, and reduces wear on the top hinge.
Hands-On Method: Chisel-Only Mortising
Score, Chop, And Pare
Work from your knife line inwards. Chop straight down along the ends, then take thin paring cuts across the grain. Avoid prying. Let the tool cut. Stop at leaf thickness; check with the actual hinge as a gauge.
Sharpening Saves Time
A keen edge leaves clean floors and corners. If your chisel skates, touch it up on a fine stone for a minute. You’ll finish faster and with fewer blowouts.
Corner Crisping
Square the corners so the leaf seats fully. If the router left a round inside corner, a few vertical chops and a tiny pare clean it up.
Router-And-Template Method For Repeatable Results
Template Setup
Clamp the jig so its window aligns to your scribe marks. Set the bit depth against the hinge leaf plus a paper-thin gap. Test on scrap first.
Routing Pass
Make shallow passes until you hit depth. Keep the base flat. Stop shy of the knife line and finish with a chisel to keep the edges sharp.
How to Cut In Hinges for a Door: Common Mistakes And Fixes
Most issues trace to layout or depth errors. Use this table to spot the symptom and pick the quick remedy.
| Problem | Symptom | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Mortise too shallow | Door rubs near hinge side | Pare floor to full leaf depth; re-seat leaf |
| Mortise too deep | Barrel sinks; latch side gap widens | Glue in veneer shim; re-chisel to depth |
| Hinges misaligned | Pins bind during drop-in | Loosen screws; tap leafs into line; re-tighten |
| Screws off-center | Leaf creeps when tightening | Use a Vix bit; plug stripped holes and re-drill |
| Wrong hinge size | Sag or loud squeak over time | Step up to 4"+ or add a third hinge |
| Template depth off | Proud or sunken leaf on every pocket | Reset router depth; test on scrap |
| Out-of-plumb jamb | Uneven reveal after hanging | Shim behind leaf; tune gap; secure screws |
Pro Checks Before You Call It Done
Gap And Swing
Look for even gaps: head 1/8", latch side 1/8"–3/16", and a hairline at the hinge side. Open and close the door ten times. Listen for scrape points and feel for drag.
Pin Direction And Access
For exterior doors, position non-removable pins outward or use security tabs. On interior doors, pins can face either way, but an easy pull direction helps when you paint or move furniture.
Screw Length
Use the factory screws for most leaves. On the top hinge, one long screw into the stud through the jamb leaf adds real strength and stops long-term sag.
Troubleshooting A Tough Hang
If The Latch Won’t Catch
Close the door and see where the latch hits. If it strikes high, raise the strike or lower the top hinge side with a thin shim behind the leaf. If it hits low, swap those moves.
If The Door Springs Open
The hinges are slightly twisted or the jamb is pinching. Back off the screws on one leaf, push the door to neutral, and re-tighten while holding pressure. Small shims under the leaf can tune the angle.
If You See Hairline Gaps At The Leaf
Re-score the outline and take a whisper of waste off the wall so the leaf sits flat. Tighten again. Tiny adjustments make a big swing difference.
Skill Boost: Clean Knife Lines And Clean Floors
Crisp Scribe Technique
Drag the knife against a square. Two light passes beat one heavy pass. Keep the blade sharp. Score across grain first to stop splinters at the corners, then along the back line.
Flat Mortise Floors
Work in layers. After each pass, check depth with the leaf. If you’re within a sheet of paper, stop and test the fit under screw tension. Wood compresses; don’t over-carve.
Router Setup Tips That Save Time
Template Alignment
Set the window flush to your layout lines. Lock clamps tight. Run the base against the guide evenly. Finish edges with a sharp chisel for square corners and a perfect seat.
Dust Control And Visibility
Clear chips between passes so you can see your line. Good light and eye protection keep you precise and safe.
When A Replacement Door Already Has Mortises
Match the existing pockets. Measure height, width, and depth. If the new hinge pattern doesn’t match, fill old holes with glued hardwood plugs, let them cure, trim flush, and re-drill. For shallow pockets, deepen with a chisel or router; for deep pockets, glue in a veneer shim and re-cut.
Where This Method Comes From
The steps above follow long-standing carpentry practice and match what many pros do in the field. If you want a deeper dive on the hand-tool version, see this classic walk-through on mortising a hinge with a chisel. Hardware makers and standards groups coordinate hole spacing and leaf geometry; BHMA’s summaries linked above show the template approach many brands share.
Wrap-Up: You’re Ready To Cut In Hinges That Feel Right
You’ve got a clear layout, leaf-thickness mortises, and a quick test routine that catches problems early. With these steps, the door closes smooth, gaps stay even, and hardware sits flush. That’s the feel you want every time.