You can DIY an in-ground pool with permits, excavation, plumbing, electric, framing, and concrete—plan 6–12 weeks and follow safety codes.
What This Guide Delivers
Here’s a practical roadmap from first sketch to first swim. You’ll size the shell, pick a structure, budget smartly, and line up inspections. The steps lean on trade-tested methods that homeowners can execute with hired help where needed. You’ll see risks called out so you can decide when to bring in a pro for a task.
Building An In-Ground Pool On Your Own: Reality Check
Going solo means acting as the general contractor. You’ll coordinate dig crews, concrete, steel, and licensed trades. Expect dust, noise, and a lot of scheduling. The payoff is control over design and cost. The trade-off is time and sweat.
Plan, Permits, And Layout
Start with a scaled drawing. Mark the yard, setbacks, easements, and utilities. File for permits before you order materials. Many cities require plot plans, structural details, and inspections for excavation, steel, electrical, and barriers. Call your local utility locate service before digging so lines get marked. Place the equipment pad near power and drainage, with airflow around the pump and filter.
Choose A Structure Type
Three common shells suit DIY builds: shotcrete or gunite over steel, poured concrete walls with rebar, and steel or polymer wall kits with a vinyl liner. Shotcrete offers curved freedom and long service life. Poured walls bring sturdy straight lines. Wall kits speed up assembly and keep the bill lower, with liners that can be replaced later.
Budget Snapshot And Skill Load
Costs swing with soil, access, finishes, and local labor rates. Set a base allowance for excavation, steel, shell, plumbing, electric, backfill, decking, and permits. Add a buffer for surprises like rock or groundwater. Plan paid help for tasks that need licensed trades or special tools, such as bonding, gas piping, or shotcrete.
Quick Comparison Table
| Shell Type | DIY Skill Level | Typical Cost Range* |
|---|---|---|
| Shotcrete/Gunite | High (pro nozzle crew) | $$$–$$$$ |
| Poured Concrete | Medium-High | $$$ |
| Steel/Polymer Walls + Vinyl | Medium | $$–$$$ |
*Ranges vary by region, access, and finish choices.
Site Prep And Excavation
Stake out the pool outline with batter boards and string lines. Set grade benchmarks so depths match the plan. Strip sod and topsoil. Excavate with a mini-excavator or hire a dig crew for tight lots. Stockpile clean fill for backfill. Keep slopes safe and spoil piles away from edges. Pump groundwater if needed and line the bottom with compacted base where plans call for it.
Set Forms And Layout Checks
Square the corners, verify diagonals, and confirm deep-end and shallow-end depths. Check the equipment pad location, skimmer placement, and return line layout. Leave space for a walkway around the shell so you can work the steel and plumbing.
Steel, Plumbing, And Drains
Place rebar per the plan with proper laps and chairs to lift steel off soil. Keep cover consistent so concrete fully wraps the grid. Rough-in suction, return, and cleaner lines in trenches outside the shell. Dry fit valves and unions on the pad to ease service later. Use schedule 40 PVC for pressure lines where rated, glue cleanly, and pressure test before the shell goes in.
Anti-Entrapment And Skimmer Details
Use listed suction fittings and dual ports on the floor or walls to reduce pull on a single outlet. Match the drain covers to the pump flow rating and follow the manufacturer’s install depth and screw pattern. Keep skimmer throats level and brace them so concrete does not twist the body.
Electrical, Bonding, And Lighting
Set a dedicated circuit with GFCI protection for the pump and any outlets on the pad. Bond the steel grid, pump motor, rails, and water with a continuous copper conductor sized per code. Keep light niches at the specified height and run listed wet-niche cable in conduit back to a junction box above the waterline. Schedule inspection before the shell is placed.
Shotcrete Or Wall Assembly
For shotcrete, a pro crew places the mix while you manage access, water, and cleanup. Shape steps and benches with trowels and wood screeds. For poured walls, set sturdy forms, brace well, and vibrate the concrete to erase voids. For steel or polymer kits, bolt panels, plumb them true, and brace corners. Pack the bottom with a smooth base before liner day.
Backfill, Deck Base, And Drainage
Backfill in lifts and compact to reduce settlement near the deck. Lay a drain line or swale so rain sheds away from the shell. Set deck forms, add compacted road base, and plan breaks for control joints. Route a sleeve under the deck for future conduits just in case.
Waterproofing, Tile, And Coping
On concrete shells, brush on cementitious waterproofing where specified. Set waterline tile on a flat band and keep joints even. Choose coping that matches your deck material. Dry lay a few pieces, then set with mortar or use a precast system for speed.
Equipment Pad Hookup
Mount the pump, filter, and heater on a level slab. Keep straight pipe runs into the pump and out of the filter. Add unions on both sides of every major component and a bypass around the heater. Install a check valve after a chlorinator to protect heat exchangers. Label valves so winterizing is simple.
Startup, Chemistry, And Daily Care
Fill the shell slowly while you wipe any plaster dust from the waterline. Purge air from the system, then prime the pump and check for drips. Balance water with test strips or a liquid kit. Keep free chlorine near 1–3 ppm and pH in the 7.2–7.8 range—see the CDC guidance for home pools on targets and testing. Brush walls and run the filter long hours during the first month to clear fines.
Safety And Barriers
Plan layers: a yard fence with self-closing, self-latching gates, alarms on doors and windows that face the water, and a safety cover when the pool is idle. Review the CPSC barrier guide for fence height, latch, and gate swing details. Keep rescue gear like a reaching pole nearby, and post basic rules for kids and guests.
Common Pitfalls And How To Dodge Them
Skipping permits invites stoppages and fines. Poor layout leads to crooked walls and uneven steps. Thin cover over rebar causes rust marks later. Missing bonding or bad terminations can tingle or trip breakers. Rushing the deck pour can lock in settlement. Neglecting drainage keeps decks slippery and stains the tile band.
Timeline And Milestones
Builds move in phases. Expect pauses during inspections and while crews line up. Wet weather slows digs and shotcrete days. Long lead items like heaters or LED niches can hold up plaster. Keep momentum by ordering early and keeping a punch list for each phase.
Project Phases At A Glance
| Phase | Core Tasks | Typical Duration |
|---|---|---|
| Permitting & Design | Plans, reviews, bids | 1–3 weeks |
| Excavation | Dig, haul, base | 1–4 days |
| Steel & Plumbing | Rebar, rough lines | 3–7 days |
| Electrical | Bond, set circuits | 1–3 days |
| Shell | Shotcrete or walls | 1–2 days + cure |
| Backfill & Deck Base | Compact, forms | 2–5 days |
| Tile & Coping | Set, grout | 2–4 days |
| Equipment & Plumbing | Pad hook-ups | 1–2 days |
| Plaster/Liner & Fill | Finish surface | 1–3 days |
| Startup | Balance, brush | 1–2 weeks |
Tool And Material Checklist
You won’t need a full contractor’s yard, but the right kit saves time. Rent heavy gear only for the days you use it. Keep consumables ready so crews never wait on glue, wire, or fasteners.
Core Items
Mini-excavator access or a dig crew, laser level, transit, rebar cutter and bender, wheelbarrows, shovels, compactor, concrete vibrator, trowels, screeds, PVC saw and cement, electrical fish tape, multimeter, bonding clamp set, shop-vac, and a sump pump.
Materials
Rebar and chairs, tie wire, schedule 40 PVC and valves, unions, skimmer and returns, listed drain covers, light niches and conduit, pump, filter, heater or heat pump, control valves, test kit, tile and coping, deck forms, and non-chloride deicer for winter work if your climate needs it.
When To Hire A Pro
Bring in specialists for gunite placement, electrical service work, gas piping, and plaster or pebble finishes. Soil that sloughs or a high water table also calls for an engineer or an experienced excavator. If your layout hugs a property line or easement, a surveyor may be worth the fee.
Drainage And Soil Notes
Clay holds water and can push on walls. Sandy loam drains fast but can cave while you dig. Plan a daylight drain or a drywell to move roof runoff away from the deck edge. Where the water table rides high, a sump line and well point can save the dig. Keep heavy trucks off soft lawns and shield tree roots you want to keep.
Inspection Sequence That Keeps You Moving
Typical order looks like this: pre-site or layout check, excavation, steel and bonding, underground plumbing, electrical rough and bonding tie-in, shell day, deck base, deck pour, barrier check, and final. Keep printed plans in a weather-safe sleeve at the site. Tape up a fresh copy of the inspection card so nothing stalls on a missing sign-off.
Water Features, Covers, And Add-Ons
Simple add-ons improve daily use without blowing the schedule. A three-way valve can feed a shear descent or small fountain. A wind-rated safety cover keeps leaves out and adds a layer of protection. If you plan a slide or future spa, stub capped lines during rough-in so you can tie in later without cutting concrete.
Winterizing And Opening
Before frost, lower water below the skimmer mouth, blow out lines, add winter plugs, and drain pumps and filters. Place a safety cover and check anchors after the first cold snap. In spring, remove debris first, fill to mid-tile, start the circulation, and bring chlorine and pH into range before anyone swims.
Cost Controls That Don’t Cut Corners
Keep shapes simple. Straight runs speed steel, formwork, and tile. Choose a single interior finish. Stub for future features like a slide or waterfall so you don’t tear up the deck later. Block days for inspections and delivery windows so paid crews never sit idle.
Final Walkthrough Checklist
Gates latch and swing outward. Light circuits trip test correctly. The pump primes fast and runs quietly. No visible leaks at unions. Tile joints align and the deck drains away from the shell. Water tests in range and the suction covers match the pump flow rating.