Learning how to determine your hair type helps you pick products, styling methods, and routines that actually match your strands.
Why Knowing Your Hair Type Helps
Hair type is more than a label; it describes how your strands look, bend, and respond to moisture and products. When you know your hair type, you can read product labels with confidence, skip random trial and error, and set realistic expectations for styling.
Dermatology groups encourage people to choose shampoo, conditioner, and styling products that match their hair type, rather than copying a generic routine. Straight, oily hair usually needs different care from thick coils or loose waves, and that starts with a clear, simple way to read what is on your head.
The Main Hair Type Categories
Most modern charts sort hair into four broad groups: straight, wavy, curly, and coily. Within those groups, subtypes run from 1A through 4C, based on how tight or loose the pattern is and how much volume the hair holds. Many people find they have more than one pattern at once, such as straighter strands at the crown and tighter waves at the nape.
| Type | Pattern | Common Traits |
|---|---|---|
| 1A | Stick straight, fine strands | Lies flat, tends to look oily fast, struggles to hold curls |
| 1B | Straight with some body | More volume than 1A, slight bend, can hold a soft wave |
| 1C | Straight and coarse | Thicker strands, rougher feel, resistant to curling irons |
| 2A | Loose S-shaped waves | Fine texture, tends to lie close to the head, light frizz |
| 2B | Defined S-shaped waves | Moderate frizz, more volume, holds wave patterns well |
| 2C | Strong, wide waves | Borderline curls, higher frizz risk, needs more moisture |
| 3A | Loose, springy curls | Big, bouncy loops, prone to halo frizz at the top of the head |
| 3B | Tight ringlet curls | Ringlets with clear shape, tends to dry out between washes |
| 3C | Dense corkscrew curls | Lots of volume, tiny spirals, needs rich, regular conditioning |
| 4A | Defined coils | Small, tight loops, strong shrinkage, can look shorter than it is |
| 4B | Z-shaped coils | Sharp bends, fluffy look, strong shrinkage |
| 4C | Tiny, tight coils | Minimal visible curl pattern, lots of shrinkage, fragile strands |
These labels grew out of the Andre Walker hair typing system and have been adapted by stylists, brands, and curl specialists across the world. They give you a shared language when you read product guides, tutorials, or articles about hair shape and structure.
How To Determine Your Hair Type At Home Step By Step
How to determine your hair type sounds like a simple question, but your answer is clearest when you create a neutral starting point and move through a checklist. Set aside a wash day when you can leave your hair mostly product free and pay attention to how it behaves from roots to ends.
Step 1: Reset Your Hair
Start by washing with a gentle shampoo that rinses away oils and product buildup without stripping your scalp. Skip heavy leave-ins, oils, or stylers for this test; use a light conditioner only on your lengths and ends, then rinse well. Let your hair air dry so you can see its natural fall and pattern.
Step 2: Read Your Curl Pattern
Once your hair is dry, stand in natural light and look at individual strands and sections. Straight type 1 hair dries without bends or loops. Type 2 hair forms S-shaped waves, either loose or strong. Type 3 hair forms loops or ringlets that wrap around a finger or pen. Type 4 hair coils into tight spirals or zigzags and often looks much shorter than its stretched length.
Check more than one area. Many people have looser pattern at the crown and tighter shape at the sides or nape. If you see a mix, choose the pattern that shows up on most of your head and treat the other pattern as a secondary type when you plan styles and products.
Step 3: Check Strand Thickness
Next, take a single clean strand and hold it between your fingers. If you can hardly feel it, you likely have fine strands. If it feels similar to sewing thread, you sit in a medium range. If the strand feels firm between your fingertips, your strands lean coarse. Fine strands often tangle quickly and flatten easily, while coarse strands can feel rough but handle more styling stress.
Step 4: Look At Hair Density
Hair density describes how much hair you have on your head, not individual strand width. Stand in front of a mirror under bright light. Part your hair in the middle and notice how much scalp you see. If your scalp shows clearly, your density is on the lower side. If you see a mix of hair and scalp, you sit in a medium range. If the scalp is hard to spot even when parted, your density is high.
Step 5: Notice Scalp Oil And Dryness
Scalp behavior shapes how your hair feels during the week. Run clean fingers along your roots a day after washing. If your fingers pick up oil and your roots clump together, your scalp runs oily. If your scalp feels tight, itchy, or flaky, it may be on the dry side. Balanced scalps feel comfortable, with roots that look fresh but not greasy.
Determining Your Hair Type Beyond Curl Pattern
Two people can share the same curl pattern and still need different care because porosity and overall condition change how hair reacts to products. Hair porosity describes how easily water and product slip in and out of the hair shaft. Damage from heat, bleach, or harsh styling can raise porosity, while low-porosity hair tends to resist both water and products. A detailed Healthline guide to hair types also stresses how porosity and structure affect care choices.
How To Test Hair Porosity At Home
To run a float test, take a clean, dry strand of shed hair and place it in a glass of room temperature water. After a few minutes, check the strand. If it stays near the surface, your hair likely has low porosity. If it hangs in the middle, you may sit in a medium range. If it sinks quickly to the bottom, your hair likely has high porosity and absorbs water fast.
You can add a strand test as well. Slide your fingers from the end of a strand up toward your scalp. A smooth feel points toward lower porosity, while lots of tiny bumps can signal raised cuticles and higher porosity. These tests are rough guides, not lab measurements, but they help you sort your hair into practical care groups.
Signs Your Hair Type Has High Porosity
High-porosity hair often drinks up conditioner yet still feels dry soon after wash day. It may frizz in humid weather, lose curl shape quickly, and tangle even with careful detangling. Bleach, aggressive relaxers, and frequent high heat styling raise porosity by roughening the outer cuticle.
Signs Your Hair Type Has Low Porosity
Low-porosity hair resists moisture at first. Water can bead on the surface in the shower, and rich creams may sit on top of the hair instead of soaking in. This hair often dries slowly, stays smooth, and holds styles once products finally absorb.
| Porosity Level | Home Test Result | Care Snapshot |
|---|---|---|
| Low | Strand floats on water, feels smooth to the touch | Prefers lighter layers of product, gentle heat helps products sink in |
| Medium | Strand hovers in middle of glass | Balances moisture and protein well, adapts to many product types |
| High | Strand sinks quickly, feels bumpy from roots to ends | Benefits from rich conditioners, oils on top to slow moisture loss |
| Damaged High | Strand sinks instantly and feels rough or stretchy when wet | Needs gentle handling, less heat, trims, and targeted repair treatments |
| Mixed | Some strands float while others sink | Layer products and adjust techniques per section of your head |
Linking Hair Type To Daily Care
Once you know your pattern, strand thickness, density, and porosity, you can build a care routine that fits your real hair instead of a trend. Straight, oily type 1 hair often prefers frequent washing with a lightweight shampoo and conditioner that will not weigh it down. Wavy hair tends to like lighter creams and gels that define the S-shape without crunch.
Curly and coily types usually need more slip, moisture, and gentle handling. Many dermatology guides, including healthy hair care tips from the American Academy of Dermatology, suggest choosing shampoo and conditioner labelled for curly or textured hair, using conditioner after each wash, and air drying or using gentle diffusers to protect curl pattern. If your scalp is itchy, sore, or shedding in unusual patches, check in with a board-certified dermatologist rather than changing products endlessly.
How To Use Your Hair Type When You Shop
When you stand in the hair aisle, match what you see on the bottle to what you mapped on your head. Look for labels that mention straight, wavy, curly, or coily hair and pick textures that match your strand width and porosity. Fine, low-density hair often pairs well with light lotions and foams. Dense curls and coils usually prefer thicker creams, custards, and butters that coat and protect each strand.
Scan ingredient lists as well. Strong cleansers fit oily scalps and heavy product users, while milder surfactants work better for dry, curly, or color treated hair. Deep conditioners and leave-ins help high-porosity hair hold on to moisture, while clarifying shampoos used sparingly keep low-porosity hair from building up residue.
How Often To Recheck Your Hair Type
Hair type is stable in many adults, but big life changes can shift it. Hormones, medications, health conditions, long-term protective styles, and repeated chemical services can all change curl pattern and porosity over time. Revisit your tests every few months, or after major changes, to see whether your pattern, density, or porosity has shifted.
Each time you repeat the float test or strand checks, write down what you see along with the products and techniques that worked best. Over time you build your own reference sheet. That record matters more than any letter and number code, because it shows how your actual hair responds in daily life.
Bringing It All Together For Your Routine
How to determine your hair type is less about memorizing charts and more about patient observation. You study pattern, thickness, density, porosity, and scalp behavior, then match them with gentle, consistent care. With that base, trend-driven tips stop feeling random and start making sense.
Use the categories and tests in this guide as a starting map, not a set of rules. Your hair may shift a little from season to season or after a big color change. When you know the markers to watch, small adjustments become simple: a lighter conditioner here, a richer cream there, an extra day between washes when your scalp allows it. Over time, those small choices add up to hair that fits your life and feels easier to care for.