A stuck screw with no head can be removed safely with the right tools, patient drilling, and steady, controlled torque.
Snapped or stripped screws turn up in furniture builds, car repairs, and home fixes, often right when you feel least ready for them.
A screw with no usable head feels hopeless, yet in most cases you can remove it and keep the surrounding surface in good shape.
This guide sets out safe, practical ways to get a headless screw out and when to reach for specialty tools.
Main Methods To Remove A Screw With No Head
Different methods suit different jobs, depending on how deep the screw sits, how tight it is, and what material surrounds it. The table below lays out the main options so you can match your situation to a method before you start work.
| Method | Best For | Tools Needed |
|---|---|---|
| Screw extractor set | Broken or stripped screw below the surface | Extractor bits, drill, wrench or tap handle |
| Locking pliers | Shaft still sticks out above the surface | Vice grips or locking pliers |
| Cutting a new slot | Flattened head close to flush with material | Rotary tool or hacksaw, flathead screwdriver |
| Left handed drill bit | Screw firmly stuck in wood or metal | Reverse twist bit, reversible drill |
| Drilling out the screw | Seized or rusted screw that will not budge | Sharp drill bits, center punch |
| Welding a nut on top | Automotive and metal work with access for welding | Welder, matching nut, standard wrench |
| Cutting around the screw | Cheap material you can plug or patch later | Drill or chisel, plug or filler |
How to Extract a Screw With No Head Safely
Before you touch a tool, pause for a short assessment. The wrong approach can snap bits, damage the workpiece, or send metal fragments toward your face.
Start by checking how far the screw sits below or above the surface. Look for rust, stripped threads, or cracked material around the hole. Then decide how much you care about saving the original hole; a cabinet door and a scrap two-by-four do not need the same level of care.
Set Up Safety And Work Area
Wear eye protection and keep loose clothing, hair, and cords away from moving tools. The OSHA hand and power tool safety publication stresses basic protection and tidy work areas for good reason.
Clamp the work so it cannot move, rest long pieces on a bench or trestles, and route cables where you cannot trip on them.
Choose The Right Method For The Job
Start with the gentlest option that can still move the fastener. Use locking pliers on any exposed shaft; switch to a screw extractor or left handed bit when the screw sits below the surface.
Match drill and extractor size to the screw, and follow the torque and pilot hole advice printed on the extractor packaging.
Step By Step: Using A Screw Extractor
A screw extractor is often the easiest answer when you wonder how to extract a screw with no head in hardwood, metal, or plastic. The tool bites inside a pilot hole and turns the broken fastener out of its threads.
1. Mark The Center Of The Screw
Use a center punch to mark the exact middle of the broken screw. This dimple keeps the drill bit from wandering sideways and chewing into the surrounding material. For soft wood you might manage with a nail and light tap, yet a proper punch gives more control.
2. Drill A Straight Pilot Hole
Fit a sharp bit that matches the extractor kit chart. Run the drill at a steady speed and keep it square to the surface. Aim to drill straight down the shaft, stopping once you reach the depth recommended for your extractor size. Blunt bits wander and overheat, so change the bit if you see smoke or burn marks.
3. Insert The Extractor
With the drill stopped and set aside, place the tapered end of the extractor into the pilot hole. Tap it gently with a hammer so the flutes bite into the screw. Too much force can crack brittle extractor steel, so use small, firm taps only.
4. Turn The Extractor In Reverse
Attach a T handle, tap wrench, or small adjustable spanner to the extractor. Turn it slowly in the direction that loosens the screw, usually counter clockwise. As you add torque, the flutes dig deeper and start to turn the screw. Keep pressure steady instead of jerky to reduce the chance of snapping the extractor.
5. Clear The Hole And Inspect Threads
Once the screw breaks free, keep turning until it backs out fully. Brush away chips and swarf. Inspect the threads in the hole; if they look clean and sharp, you can reuse the same screw size. Damaged or stretched threads may need a thread repair insert or a slightly larger screw for a fresh bite.
Other Practical Ways To Remove A Headless Screw
Screw extractors are not the only answer. Several simple techniques work well when the screw is slightly loose already or when you do not own an extractor set.
Twisting The Shaft With Locking Pliers
When a short length of screw sticks out, clamp locking pliers firmly around the shaft as close to the surface as possible. Rock the screw gently back and forth to break rust or dried glue, then start turning it out. Fresh penetrating oil around the threads can help, especially on rusted outdoor screws.
Cutting A New Slot For A Flathead Driver
For a flattened or rounded head that still sits close to the surface, cut a straight groove across the top. A rotary tool with a cut off wheel gives the best control, though a small hacksaw blade can work in a pinch. Once you have a clean slot, press a wide flathead screwdriver into it and turn slowly while pushing down for grip.
Using Left Handed Drill Bits
Left handed drill bits cut while spinning in reverse. While they drill a pilot hole, they also apply loosening torque, so many stubborn screws spin free before you ever reach for an extractor. Choose a bit a little smaller than the screw core and drill slowly in reverse; stop at once if the screw begins to turn so you can pull it straight out.
Drilling The Screw Out Completely
When every gentle method fails, you can drill the screw out and repair the hole. Start with a small bit and move up gradually until only the threads remain, then pick them out with a pick or small flat screwdriver. Once the hole is clean, plug it with a dowel and wood glue in timber, or tap new threads for a slightly larger fastener in metal.
Removing Headless Screws In Different Materials
Context matters. The way you treat a broken screw in a solid oak worktop is not the same as a small brass screw in a plastic cover. Adjust your method to match the material so you keep damage low and avoid unsafe cracks.
Headless Screws In Wood
Wood strips easily, so use sharp bits, light pressure, and stop as soon as the screw starts to move. If you drill it out, plug the hole with a glued hardwood dowel before refitting a new screw.
Common Problems When Removing Headless Screws
Even with care, things sometimes go wrong. The table below lists frequent issues and simple fixes.
| Problem | Likely Cause | Simple Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Extractor slips in the pilot hole | Pilot hole too wide or shallow | Drill slightly deeper with correct size bit |
| Extractor starts to twist or feel weak | Too much torque or hard, seized screw | Back off at once and step up to a larger extractor |
| Drill bit walks off the screw | No center punch mark or dull bit | Punch a deeper mark and swap to a sharp bit |
| Threads damaged after removal | Off center drilling or strong corrosion | Use a thread repair kit or upsize the screw |
| Material around screw scorched | High drill speed and friction | Slow the drill and let bits cool between passes |
| Screw breaks deeper in the hole | Too much twisting force with pliers or driver | Switch to a screw extractor and fresh pilot hole |
| Debris stuck in hole | Crushed threads and chips not cleared | Blow out dust and brush threads before refitting |
Preventing More Headless Screws
A few simple habits cut the chance of snapped heads and stuck shanks during day to day work.
Match Driver And Screw Properly
Use the correct driver bit size and pattern for every screw. A worn Phillips bit in a tight Pozidriv screw chews the recess quickly. Replace tired bits, and push the driver straight in so torque transfers cleanly into the screw rather than rounding the head.
Drill Pilot Holes And Control Torque
Pilot holes prevent wedging and reduce stress on both screw and material. Follow the pilot size printed on the screw box where available, and let the tool clutch stop you rather than forcing the last turns by hand. In hardwoods and dense plastics, waxing the screw threads can help them drive more smoothly.
Once you know how to extract a screw with no head safely, a broken fastener is just a short delay. Choose a method, work calmly, and you will free the screw and finish the task.