How to Fix a Leaking Washing Machine

To fix a leaking washing machine, trace the drip, secure or replace hoses, level the unit, and swap worn seals or the drain pump.

A small puddle can turn into a soaked subfloor fast. This guide shows you where leaks start, which fixes work, and how to stop them from coming back. You’ll learn how to find the source in minutes, make the right repair, and prevent repeat messes without guesswork.

How To Fix A Leaking Washing Machine

Start with quick safety steps, then match what you see to the most likely cause. Work from easy checks to parts replacement only when needed. Keep towels and a small bucket nearby so you can work clean.

Safety And Fast Prep

Unplug the washer.
Close both water valves at the wall.
Slide the machine forward a few inches so you can see the back and the floor.
If water is flowing, shut the valves and bail any standing water before you begin.

Quick Leak Map: Symptom → Likely Cause → First Fix

Use this table to spot patterns quickly. Start at the row that matches what you see on the floor or cabinet.

Symptom	Likely Cause	First Fix
Puddle under back	Loose or cracked fill hoses	Hand-tighten, add 1/4-turn; replace washers or hoses
Water down wall/standpipe	Drain hose popped out or shallow	Insert 6–8 in. into standpipe; zip-tie in place
Leak during drain only	Clogged standpipe or bad pump	Snake standpipe; inspect pump for drips
Drips at front rim	Torn door boot (front-load)	Clean boot; replace if nicked or cracked
Water at dispenser corner	Caked detergent or loose siphon cap	Rinse drawer parts; seat siphon cap; use HE dose
Random splashes, tilting tub	Washer out of level	Adjust feet and lock nuts; recheck
Slow drip even when idle	Inlet valve seeping at body	Replace inlet valve assembly
Water under center after spin	Main tub seal wear	Plan seal kit or pro visit

Step 1: Find The Leak In Under Five Minutes

Run a short rinse cycle and watch from the sides and back with a flashlight. Check the hose connections, the drain hose, the dispenser area, the pump at the bottom, and the door boot. Pause as soon as you see a drip. Wipe the wet spot dry and repeat to confirm the source.

Step 2: Stop Leaks From Fill Hoses

Where it shows up: streaks down the back or a puddle near the wall. Do this first:

Hand-tighten the hot and cold hose nuts. Add a gentle quarter-turn with pliers—no more.
Pull the hoses and check the flat rubber washers inside the fittings. Flattened or cracked washers cause tiny sprays. Replace the washers or swap the hose set.
Replace puffy or cracked black rubber hoses with braided stainless lines. Route with wide bends; avoid kinks.
Skip thread tape on hose fittings. These fittings seal against the internal washer, not the threads.

For brand-specific tips and part names, see Whirlpool’s clear leak guide. It lists common leak points and shows where to look on the cabinet.

Step 3: Fix A Dripping Drain Hose Or Standpipe

Signs: water appears during or right after drain. A loose or shallow drain hose will splash outside the pipe, and a clogged standpipe will overflow.

Seat the drain hose 6–8 inches into the standpipe. Zip-tie it so it can’t pop out.
Snake the standpipe if it backs up. Hair and lint are common blockers.
Check the hose clamp at the pump outlet. Replace a brittle hose or any clamp that won’t tighten evenly.

Step 4: Replace A Worn Door Boot (Front-Load)

Signs: moisture beads at the lower rim or drips from the front. Coins, keys, and pet hair nick the rubber over time.

Open the door and inspect the boot folds for cuts or rough spots.
Clean the boot and glass with mild detergent and a soft cloth.
Photograph the outer spring clamp routing. Remove the clamp, then the boot. Transfer any indexing marks to the new boot and install. Refit the inner and outer clamps.

Step 5: Seal The Dispenser Drawer Area

Signs: trails down the front left corner. The cure is simple cleaning and correct dosing.

Pull the drawer. Rinse caked detergent and softener. Make sure the siphon cap clicks into place.
Use only HE detergent at the marked dose. Oversuds will push water out of vents and gaps.

Step 6: Track Leaks From The Pump, Tub-To-Pump Hose, Or Inlet Valve

Drain pump: look for a steady drip from the pump body during drain. If the housing is cracked or the shaft weeps, replace the pump assembly.
Tub-to-pump hose: squeeze for hidden pinholes and check for a loose spring clamp. Swap any hose that feels gummy or shows white mineral tracks.
Main tub seal (top-load): water under the center after spin points here. A seal kit is a bigger job; compare parts cost to machine age before you dive in.
Water inlet valve: leaks at the solenoid body or fittings—even when idle—mean the valve needs replacement.

Step 7: Level The Washer So Water Stays Put

A rocking cabinet can splash out vents and shake fittings loose. Place a level on top, front-to-back and side-to-side. Turn the feet until the bubble centers, then lock the nuts. Many models have adjustable feet at all four corners; GE’s page on leveling steps shows what to expect on older and newer designs.

Step 8: Run A No-Leak Test

Dry the floor and set paper towels under the back and front edges. Run a quick wash with no clothes and watch the fill, wash, drain, and spin. If the towels stay dry, you’re set. If not, repeat the check at the last area you touched.

Fixing A Leaking Washing Machine At Home: Fast Checks

Here’s the short list of fixes most owners use to solve leaks the same day. Use it as your plan of attack.

Tighten or replace fill hoses and the flat washers in the ends.
Seat and secure the drain hose; clear a slow standpipe.
Clean or replace the door boot when it’s nicked or sticky.
Replace a cracked pump or a hose that shows white mineral tracks.
Use HE detergent at the marked line to prevent oversuds.
Level the cabinet and lock the feet.

Parts, Costs, And When To Replace

Most leaks end with one of three parts: a hose set, a door boot, or a drain pump. The hose set is the lowest cost and the fastest win. The boot is mid-range and takes a bit more time. The pump cost varies by model, yet the swap is still a standard DIY job with basic tools. If your machine is over ten years old and needs a main tub seal, weigh the repair against replacement.

Part	What It Does	Replace When
Braided fill hoses (pair)	Feeds hot/cold water to valve	Every 5–7 years or if bulged, kinked, or rusty
Flat rubber washers	Seal hose fittings	Flattened, cracked, or after hose removal if drips appear
Drain hose	Carries waste water out	Brittle, pinholed, or loose at clamp
Door boot (front-load)	Seals door opening	Torn, sticky, or misshapen
Drain pump	Moves water to the drain	Drips from housing or shaft during drain
Inlet valve	Controls fill water	Weeps at body or fittings even when idle
Spring clamps	Secures hoses	Won’t hold tension or shows rust tracks
Adjustable feet	Levels the washer	Cabinet rocks or lock nuts won’t stay tight

Pro Tips That Save Time

Photograph wiring and clamp positions before you pull parts.
Replace both fill hoses as a pair. Keep the old good one as a spare.
Route hoses with wide bends. Tight curves rub and split.
After any fix, run a quick wash and then a full load to confirm it stays dry.

Smart Prevention So You Don’t See This Leak Again

Swap old rubber hoses for braided stainless lines. Inspect them at each clean-out day.
Leave the door ajar between loads to dry the boot and stop musty buildup.
Rinse the dispenser drawer monthly so water doesn’t bridge over the lip.
Keep the cabinet level and recheck after a move or a heavy load streak.
Install quarter-turn shutoff valves within easy reach and close them when you travel.

How To Fix A Leaking Washing Machine: FAQs You Don’t Need

This isn’t a Q&A section; you already have the fixes. If your case still stumps you, read the brand’s leak page and check leveling guidance. The links above point to pages that show cabinet diagrams and leg styles so you can match your model. If the floor still gets wet after hose, clamp, and boot work, book a tech with the model number ready.

Two Times To Call A Pro Right Away

Water under the center after spin (main tub seal signs).
Any burning smell or breaker trip during a test.

Where This Guide Fits Your Search

If you typed “how to fix a leaking washing machine” because you saw a new puddle today, the steps above cut straight to what stops it: secure the fill, seat the drain, clean the dispenser path, level the cabinet, and replace worn parts. Many owners finish the repair in one session with basic tools.

One-Page Checklist To Print

Power off and valves off.
Inspect fill hoses and washers; replace if worn.
Seat and tie the drain hose; clear the standpipe.
Clean or replace the door boot.
Check pump, tub-to-pump hose, and inlet valve for drips.
Level all four feet and lock them.
Run a no-leak test with paper towels under the edges.

Stay dry, stay methodical, and reuse this checklist any time the laundry room shows a mystery drip. With the right sequence, you’ll fix the leak and keep wash day drama-free.