Measure chest, overarm, waist, seat, sleeve, and inseam to get your suit size, then match them to a brand’s size chart.
You can get a sharp, reliable fit at home with a soft tape and ten steady minutes. This guide shows you how to get your suit size step by step, what each number means, and how to read jacket and pant tags with confidence. You’ll take six core measurements, translate them into jacket and pant sizes, and check the fine points that separate okay from dialed-in.
How To Get Your Suit Size: Step-By-Step At Home
This section walks through the core measurements you need for an off-the-rack suit or a made-to-measure order. Wear a thin tee or dress shirt. Stand tall, breathe normally, and keep the tape snug, not tight. Ask a friend to help for accuracy.
Tools You’ll Need
- 60-inch soft tape
- Mirror and good light
- Well-fitting dress shirt and trousers
- Notebook or phone notes to record numbers
Measurements You’ll Take (Quick Map)
Here’s the quick map of what you’ll measure and how it maps to size tags for jackets and pants.
| Measurement | How To Measure | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Chest (Underarm) | Wrap tape around the fullest part of chest, under armpits, across shoulder blades. Keep tape level; breathe out naturally. | Primary jacket size (e.g., 38, 40, 42). Most off-the-rack jackets are based on this number. |
| Overarm | Tape around shoulders and arms at the widest point, over the chest. | Helps confirm jacket size if you’re broad-shouldered or between sizes. |
| Waist (Pant) | At the natural crease above hip bones. Keep one finger under the tape. | Base for suit pant waist and for drop math (jacket chest minus pant waist). |
| Seat/Hips | Around the fullest part of the seat with feet hip-width apart. | Prevents pulling and seam stress; helps with rise and seat ease. |
| Sleeve | From shoulder point down a relaxed arm to wrist bone. Bend elbow slightly. | Sets sleeve length so shirt cuff peeks 1/4″–1/2″. |
| Shoulder Width | Across the back from shoulder point to shoulder point. | Guides shoulder fit; the seam should meet the shoulder bone. |
| Inseam | From crotch seam to hem on trousers that already fit, or along inner leg to the top of the shoe. | Controls pant length and break. |
Find Your Jacket Size (Chest And Length)
Match your chest number to a jacket size. A 40″ chest usually wears a 40 jacket. If your overarm minus chest is 7″ or more, many brands suggest sizing up one number for room through the shoulders. Jacket length (Short, Regular, Long, Extra-Long) is based on height ranges set by each brand. If you’re between height bands, check the brand’s chart.
Understand The Drop (Jacket-To-Pant)
Most two-piece suits have a standard “drop,” the difference between jacket chest and pant waist. A classic drop is 6 (e.g., 40R jacket ships with 34W pants). Slim cuts use a drop of 7 or even 8. If your waist doesn’t match the bundle, swap the pants or order separates.
Dial In Pants (Waist, Rise, Inseam)
Pant waist should sit at or just below the navel for a classic suit. The rise controls comfort when sitting and the line from waistband to thigh. Inseam sets the break: full, slight, or clean no-break. Hem plain or with a cuff based on style and fabric weight.
Get Your Suit Size With A Size Chart: Conversions & Drops
Brand charts translate your body numbers into a jacket size, length, and pant waist. They also show how fits compare: classic, trim, extra-trim, athletic. A clear visual guide from retailers can help you double-check where to place the tape and how the numbers map to tags. Two solid references:
- Men’s Wearhouse measurement guide shows chest vs. overarm and a simple flow from tape to size.
- Nordstrom suit & sportcoat size guide (PDF) outlines where to place the tape and how fits differ.
Sample Conversion (How The Numbers Map)
Let’s say your chest is 40″, overarm is 48″, waist is 35″, sleeve is 33″, and you’re 5’11”. You’ll start at 40R for the jacket. Your overarm minus chest is 8″, so a roomier shoulder block might help if you lift or have broader delts. If the suit is sold as a set with a 6-inch drop, your bundled pant would be 34W—close to your 35″ waist. Many shops can swap to a 35W or 36W pant so alterations stay light.
How To Handle “Between Sizes”
- Between chest sizes: Go up one and tailor the waist and sleeve.
- Broad shoulders, trim torso: Choose the size that nails the shoulders; bring in the body.
- Waist far off the drop: Buy separates or request a pant swap.
- Tall with shorter arms: Jacket length may be Long, but sleeves can be shortened.
Fit Checks That Matter On The Body
Numbers get you close; the mirror finishes the job. Run this checklist once the jacket is on and pants are hemmed to your liking.
Shoulders And Chest
Seam sits right on the shoulder bone with a clean line to the sleeve. No divots at the front of the shoulder. Button the top button on a two-button jacket; you should feel light contact, not strain. If fabric pulls into lines across the chest, the jacket is tight. If it tents, it’s roomy in the front or wide at the shoulders.
Collar And Back
The jacket collar should hug the shirt collar without gaps. Horizontal lines across the upper back suggest tight blades; vertical ripples at the collar mean the collar is standing off and needs a roll adjustment.
Sleeve And Cuff Show
Sleeves end at the wrist bone. Shirt cuff should show a sliver of fabric—about 1/4″ to 1/2″. If you wear a watch, leave an extra 1/4″.
Jacket Length And Balance
Classic length covers the seat and splits the distance between the base of the neck and the floor in half. Long torsos may prefer a touch more length for balance, shorter torsos a touch less. Use a mirror from the side to check harmony with your stance and pant rise.
Pant Seat, Thigh, And Hem
The seat should lie smooth with no X-lines under the waistband. Thighs should move freely without swishing fabric. Break is a style choice: clean no-break for a sharp look, slight break for a softer line, or full break with heavier cloths.
How To Get Your Suit Size In A Store Without A Tape
No tape? You can still ballpark it. Grab two jackets close to your guess and try the smaller first. If the shoulders fit and the front closes with light contact, that’s your anchor size. Move one size up only if you see chest pull or blade strain. Then layer in fit: classic for ease, trim for a neater waist, extra-trim for a shaped torso.
Use A Trusted Chart Or Calculator
Retailer charts and simple calculators can get you in the zone even without a tape. They map height, weight, and build to a starting size and jacket length. You’ll still test shoulder fit and button stance in person, but the chart removes guesswork and saves time in the fitting room.
Common Mistakes When Finding A Suit Size
Most sizing errors start at the shoulders. If the seam is hanging past your shoulder bone, alterations can’t fix that cleanly. Squeezing into a narrow shoulder to slim the waist also backfires; you’ll get pull lines and restricted movement. Another trap is chasing a tagged pant length when the hem should match your shoes and stance. Treat pant length as a finishing step, not a fixed tag.
Signs You Need A Different Size (Not Just Alterations)
- Persistent collar gap even after pressing.
- Chest strain with deep pull lines at the button.
- Shoulder divots or sleeve ripples that start at the armhole.
- Upper-back drag lines when you move your arms forward.
- Pant seat whiskers that don’t steam out.
Alterations: What’s Easy And What’s Hard
Great news: the most visible tweaks are usually simple and affordable. A tailor can clean up sleeve length, bring the waist in, let the seat out, and set your hem. Shoulder width, armhole depth, and button stance are tough and often not worth the cost. Start with the right block, then use alterations to refine.
| Fit Issue | Typical Fix | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Jacket Waisted Too Full | Take in side seams or center back. | Clean hourglass without chest pull. |
| Sleeves Too Long | Shorten from sleeve hem or shoulder (harder). | Target 1/4″–1/2″ of shirt cuff. |
| Collar Gap | Collar roll or back neck adjustment. | Sometimes points to wrong size in shoulders. |
| Pant Seat Tight | Let out seat and back rise. | Most pants have let-out allowance. |
| Pant Too Long | Hem to preferred break; add cuff if desired. | Match hem to shoe style and stance. |
| Chest Too Tight | Size up jacket; minor let-out at side seams. | Shoulders must still sit clean. |
| Shoulders Too Wide/Narrow | Swap jacket size or model. | Big structural change—usually not altered. |
Try-On Flow: Five-Minute Checklist
- Start with the right chest size based on your tape numbers.
- Pick jacket length off height band; check coverage in a mirror.
- Button the jacket and raise arms; look for clean lines across chest and back.
- Check sleeve length with shirt cuffs on.
- Set pant waist where you’ll wear it; pin hem to your preferred break.
How To Read Suit Tags And Size Codes
Common jacket tags look like “40R” or “42L.” The number is chest; the letter is length. Pants may show “34W x 32L.” Some labels add a fit code: Classic, Trim, Extra-Trim, Athletic. Sets may show the drop as “6R” on the label. If the tag lists a nested pant size that doesn’t match your waist, ask for a swap or choose separates.
Fabric, Lining, And Ease
Wool with a touch of stretch gives comfort without losing shape. Half-canvas construction tends to drape well and respond to pressing. Full lining runs warmer and glides over shirts; partial lining breathes better in hotter months. These details don’t change the tag size, but they can change how that size wears through the day.
How To Get Your Suit Size For Special Builds
Broad Shoulders Or Lifted
Prioritize shoulder fit. Take the chest that sits clean on the shoulder bone, then bring the body in. A higher armhole allows better movement without ballooning the sleeve.
Tall And Slim
Length may be Long with a trim fit. Watch skirt length so the jacket still covers the seat. Slim legs look sharp with a light taper, but don’t starve the thigh.
Shorter Stature
Length may be Short. Keep button stance and gorge placement proportional so the jacket doesn’t crowd the torso. Slight taper in the leg keeps the line neat.
Athletic Seat And Thigh
Choose a pant block with room in the seat and thigh, then taper below the knee as desired. This avoids whiskers and stress near the back pockets.
Care Tips That Preserve Fit
- Hang on a wide-shoulder hanger to protect the shape.
- Brush wool after wear; steam wrinkles, dry clean sparingly.
- Rotate pairs of trousers if your suit came with two.
- Press hems and sleeves lightly to keep edges crisp.
Final Check Before You Buy
Stand in natural light. Button the jacket and take three slow breaths. Reach forward like you’re typing; the back should move without biting into the blades. Sit to test the pant rise. Walk a few steps and look for clean drape from shoulder to cuff. If the bones are right—shoulders, chest, and length—the rest is easy. Send it for simple tweaks and enjoy the result.
If you came here wondering exactly how to get your suit size without stress, the steps above give you a clean, repeatable method you can trust at home.