Prep the subfloor, add underlayment, click boards row by row, and leave 1/4–1/2 inch expansion gaps for a clean, long-lasting finish.
This guide shows the plan, tools, layout, and every cut so you can lay a tough, good-looking surface in a weekend.
What You’ll Need
Gather everything before you pull baseboards or move furniture. The right kit speeds up each row and prevents chipped edges.
| Item | Purpose | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Laminate planks | Main surface | Buy 10% extra for cuts and waste. |
| Underlayment or pad | Cushion, sound, moisture | Use combo pad with vapor barrier on concrete. |
| Tape measure & chalk line | Layout | Snap a straight reference line for the first row. |
| Spacers | Edge gap | Holds the expansion gap along walls and posts. |
| Tapping block & pull bar | Tight joints | Protects click edges while closing seams. |
| Saw (miter, jigsaw, or circular) | Crosscuts & notches | Use carbide blades; cut face up with miter, face down with jigsaw. |
| Oscillating tool or jamb saw | Door trim undercut | Makes planks slide under casings. |
| Hammer & rubber mallet | Seating joints | Light taps only—don’t bruise edges. |
| Utility knife & straightedge | Pad trimming | Keep pad tight without overlaps. |
| Safety gear | Eyes, lungs, hearing | Goggles, mask for dust, ear protection. |
Project Planning And Room Prep
Check the subfloor first. It should be flat, clean, dry, and solid. Scrape ridges, fill low spots with patch, and tighten any squeaks. Vacuum so grit doesn’t block click joints.
Condition matters. Keep the room in normal living range with HVAC running. Many brands call for 35–65% relative humidity and 65–85°F during and after the job (see brand room-condition guidance). Some products ask for a short acclimation period in the room, while others allow same-day install when site conditions meet spec. Read your brand’s PDF so you follow their numbers and keep the warranty intact.
Clear the area and undercut door casings so planks can slide under with the required edge gap. Remove or trim old transitions so new profiles sit flush. If baseboards stay, plan to add quarter-round later to hide the gap.
Moisture defense. Over concrete or below grade, use underlayment with a built-in vapor barrier, or lay a separate film when your brand calls for it. Tape seams as directed. On wood subfloors, use the pad style recommended by the manufacturer for sound and minor leveling.
Installing Laminate Planks The Right Way
Follow these passes from start to finish.
1) Plan Board Direction And Row Count
Most DIYers run boards along the long wall. That look feels natural and keeps seams tidy. Use plank width to figure out the last row. If the last strip would be under 2 inches, rip the first row narrower so both sides land at a decent width.
2) Snap A Reference Line And Roll The Pad
Measure out from the starter wall and snap a chalk line that mirrors the wall but stays straight. Roll the pad with seams tight and flat. Don’t overlap. Trim neatly at obstacles so the pad doesn’t stack up or bunch.
3) Set Spacers For The Expansion Gap
Place spacers along every wall and at fixed posts. Keep the gap consistent from corner to corner. You’ll cover this later with baseboard or quarter-round.
4) Build The First Row
Trim the tongue off the wall side of the first plank so the edge sits clean against spacers. Join end joints by clicking at an angle, then lower. Use a tapping block on the long edge only if the brand allows. Aim for tight seams with no chips or raised lips.
5) Stagger The Joints
Start each new row with an offcut at least 12 inches long so end joints don’t line up. Keep a repeating pattern out of the layout by mixing planks from several boxes and shifting cut lengths.
6) Click Long Side, Then Close The End
Angle the long tongue into the groove of the previous row and lower it until it rests flat. Slide the board to engage the short end, then lock it with a light tap. Use a pull bar near walls where the tapping block won’t fit.
7) Scribe And Notch For Doorways
Dry-fit a plank, mark the cut, then notch with a jigsaw so it slips under the casing with the spacer still in place. Leave the edge gap hidden under the trim.
8) Keep Rows Straight
Check that seams stay tight and lines stay true every few rows. If a board won’t seat, inspect the groove for debris and flick it out. Swap any piece with a bent tongue or chipped edge.
9) Fit The Final Row
Measure the gap to the wall, subtract the edge gap, and rip the planks to width. Use the pull bar to bring the last joints tight without marring the face. Keep spacers in until trim goes back on.
10) Add Trims And Transitions
Install T-molding at doorways between rooms of the same height, reducer where the next floor is lower, and end caps at sliders or hearths. Nail or glue trim to the subfloor or wall, not to the floating surface.
Underlayment, Barriers, And Room Conditions
Pad choice affects the feel and the sound of each step. Combo pads add a moisture layer for concrete. Cork or premium foam can knock down footfall noise. Over radiant heat, check the brand’s max surface temperature and the heat-up schedule so seams don’t open.
Site conditions help the floor stay flat and quiet. Keep humidity and temperature in normal living range before, during, and after the project. Some brands need planks to rest in the room for two days; others say no rest period when the site already meets spec. Follow your brand’s booklet so you stay within warranty rules.
Expansion, Stagger, And Cut Cheatsheet
| Topic | Typical Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Edge expansion gap | 1/4–1/2 inch | Match your brand; keep gaps around pipes and posts too. |
| End-joint stagger | 12–16 inches | Prevents weak lines and spreads load. |
| Door casing undercut | Saw to plank + pad thickness | Plank should slide under with spacer in place. |
| Last row width | ≥ 2 inches | Rip the first row so both sides land near even widths. |
| Radiant surface temp | Up to brand limit | Many cap at 85°F; follow heat-up instructions. |
Care Right After The Last Cut
Pop spacers, reinstall baseboard or quarter-round, then sweep and damp-mop. Stick felt pads to furniture feet. Lift, don’t drag, heavy pieces. Keep rugs off for a day so joints settle and trims cure. Ventilate the room during cleanup.
Cost, Time, And Skill Check
A typical 10×12 room takes a weekend for a first-timer with standard cuts. Tool rental can keep costs down if you don’t own a miter saw or oscillating tool.
Estimate materials by multiplying room length times width, then adding 10% for waste. If you’re installing on a diagonal, bump waste to 12–15%. Don’t forget trims, stair noses, and thresholds for every doorway. Work patiently.
Warranty Basics And Brand Specs
Brands publish step-by-step PDFs. Two standouts cover room conditions, edge gaps, pad types, and click technique. See Pergo’s clear installation steps.
Printable Step List
Quick Recap
- Condition the room and check subfloor flatness.
- Undercut door trim; remove doors and shoe molding.
- Roll pad with tight seams; tape only if the brand calls for it.
- Set spacers for a consistent edge gap.
- Build the first row dead straight.
- Stagger end joints 12–16 inches and mix boards from several boxes.
- Click long side, then close ends; use a block and pull bar gently.
- Notch boards for casings and vents; keep the gap hidden under trim.
- Rip the last row to width and lock it with a pull bar.
- Install transitions and base; attach trim to walls or subfloor only.