To change the belt on a GE dryer, unplug, open top/front, loop the new belt on the drum, route over motor and idler, then reassemble.
A worn or snapped belt leaves the drum still while the motor hums. The good news: swapping the belt is a straightforward home repair on most GE models. Below you’ll find the prep, tools, model notes, a clean step list, and checks that stop squeaks and misalignment before they start. Where steps vary by model, you’ll see clear callouts and links to official pages for diagrams and part lookup.
What This Fix Solves
- Drum doesn’t turn, motor runs.
- Burnt-rubber smell, belt frayed or glazed.
- Intermittent tumbling after a heavy load.
- Visible belt cracks during inspection.
Tools, Parts, And Prep
Grab a nut driver set (1/4" and 5/16" are common), Phillips screwdriver, putty knife, vacuum, work gloves, and a new belt. Two current GE belt part numbers you’ll see often are WE12M29 and WE03X29897. Always match by model number before ordering; GE’s manuals site lets you pull model-specific literature and parts lists (owner’s manuals page).
Safety first: disconnect power at the plug or breaker. GE’s dryer manuals spell out that turning the cycle knob to OFF doesn’t cut power; pull the plug or open the breaker before any service (manual safety notice).
Quick Belt Match And Model Notes
GE produced a wide range of dryers: older rear-bearing units, newer front-bearing designs, and stackable laundry centers. Routing at the motor and idler stays similar, while the way you open the cabinet can change. Use the table below to spot common belts and notes, then confirm on the manual or parts page for your exact model.
| Belt Part | Common Fit | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| WE12M29 | Many legacy and Hotpoint-branded units | Typical length ~89"; 4 ribs/3 grooves; match by model |
| WE03X29897 | Numerous recent GE/GE Profile dryers | Approx. 89-1/2"; 4 ribs; check routing diagram per model |
| WE12M22 | Selected older GE models | Genuine GE belt; verify against the unit’s parts list |
Replacing The Belt On A GE Dryer — Step-By-Step
The steps below reflect the most common cabinet layout. If your model opens differently, the linked GE pages above show diagrams and videos for variants, including older rear-bearing types.
1) Power Down And Clear Space
Unplug the dryer or switch off the breaker. Pull the unit forward so you can reach the rear and sides. Lay a towel in front to protect the finish when you set the front panel aside.
2) Pop The Top
Slide a putty knife about 3" in from each front corner to release the two spring clips. Lift the top and swing it upward on its rear hinges. Some models use two screws beneath the lint filter cover instead; remove those first, then lift the top.
3) Remove The Front Panel
Locate the two screws at the upper inside corners of the front panel. Remove them with a nut driver or Phillips bit. Tilt the panel forward a few inches. If your door switch harness is short, unplug it now. Lift the panel off the lower tabs and set it aside.
4) Take Tension Off The Old Belt
Reach under the drum from the front. Find the idler pulley arm that presses against the belt near the motor pulley. Pull the idler to relieve tension and slip the old belt off the motor pulley. Lift the drum slightly and slide the old belt out.
5) Inspect Wear Parts While You’re In There
Spin the idler; it should turn smoothly and quietly. Look at the rear drum bearing (older units) or front drum slides (newer designs). If slides are thin or missing, plan to replace them soon; GE’s bearing/slide video page shows typical wear points and how to service them on legacy units (bearing & slide video).
6) Install The New Belt On The Drum
Wrap the new belt around the drum with ribs facing the drum. Position it roughly in line with the old belt wear track, usually near the rear of the drum on GE units. If no track is visible, center the belt on the smooth zone, about 2" forward of the rear lip.
7) Route The Belt At The Motor And Idler
From the front, reach under the drum again. Loop the belt down around the motor pulley, then around the idler pulley so the idler pushes on the belt’s back side. When routed correctly, the belt wraps the motor pulley about 180° with the idler taking up slack. While holding the idler back, slip the belt fully onto the motor pulley, then let the idler set tension.
8) Align The Drum And Seal
Rotate the drum by hand one full turn. The belt should ride straight without walking forward or backward. Check that the front felt seal sits evenly; reseat it if the edge rolled while handling the drum.
9) Refit The Front Panel
Set the front panel on its lower tabs, swing it up, and reinstall the two top screws. Reconnect the door switch harness. Close the top and press to latch the spring clips or reinstall the two lint-filter screws depending on your layout.
10) Test Run
Plug the dryer back in. Run Air Fluff or a low-heat cycle for a minute with no clothes. Watch and listen: the drum should spin smoothly, with no belt chirp or thump. If it squeals, see the troubleshooting table below.
Model Differences You Might See
Rear-Bearing Legacy Units
Many older GE and Hotpoint dryers ride the drum on a rear ball-and-socket bearing. Access is the same up front, but the drum lifts slightly higher when removing and reinstalling the belt. If the rear bearing is dry, add a pea-sized dab of high-temp lubricant on reassembly, and check drum slides at the front edge while you’re there.
Recent Front-Bearing Designs
Newer GE/GE Profile models use plastic/graphite slides on the front bulkhead. If they’re worn through, a fresh belt won’t stay true for long. Replace the slides and felt strip in pairs to keep the drum height and belt line even.
Stacked Laundry Centers
On many laundry centers, the cabinet opens the same way, but space is tight. Take a few extra photos of wiring and belt routing before you pull parts. The belt part number often matches stand-alone dryers from the same era; confirm by model on the manuals or parts page.
Smart Checks Before Buttoning Up
- Belt Track: Spin the drum by hand and watch the belt path at the rear edge. No wandering or rubbing.
- Idler Action: The arm should move freely and spring back. Replace a squeaky or wobbly idler pulley.
- Lint Cleanout: Vacuum the base, motor intake, and lint chute for better airflow and less heat stress on the belt.
- Vent Run: Crushed or long vent runs slow the drum and glaze belts. Keep the duct short with smooth elbows.
Belt Routing Tips That Save Time
Keep Ribs To The Drum
Ribbed side goes against the drum; the smooth back rides on the idler. Flip it if the ribs end up outside.
Center The Idler On The Belt
If the idler runs on the belt edge, the belt will fray. Shift the belt a few millimeters and re-spin the drum to track it.
Photograph As You Go
One picture of the motor and idler area can save a trip back inside the cabinet.
After The Swap: Break-In And Quick Tests
Run the dryer with no load for two minutes. Then dry a damp towel on low heat. A faint new-belt scent can appear for the first hour of runtime and then fades. Any sharp squeal points to a dry idler or misrouted belt.
Troubleshooting After A New Belt
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Drum won’t turn | Belt off motor pulley; idler not on belt | Re-route over motor, under/around idler, then retension |
| Chirp or squeal | Idler pulley dry or worn; belt off-center | Replace or lube idler (as designed); center the belt and re-spin by hand |
| Belt walks forward | Front slides uneven; felt rolled | Replace front slides; reseat felt and align drum |
| Thump each turn | Debris under belt; flat spot from old belt | Clean drum ridge; let the new belt run 10–15 minutes |
| Burnt smell | Belt riding lip or rubbing cabinet | Re-center belt; check rear bearing height on legacy units |
How To Pick The Right GE Belt Fast
Match with the model tag inside the door frame or on the cabinet lip. Enter that model on GE’s parts lookup to see the exact belt and a diagram (parts search by model). When in doubt between two belts, choose the part listed on the unit’s diagram page to avoid length or rib mismatch (parts diagram access).
Maintenance That Extends Belt Life
Keep Airflow High
Clear the lint filter each load and clean the vent at least once a year. Better airflow means shorter cycles and less heat stress on the belt.
Don’t Overload
Heavy, dense loads strain the belt and idler. Split bedding or large towels into two cycles when the drum stalls on startup.
Listen For Early Signs
A soft squeak at startup or a light rubber smell points to idler wear or belt glazing. A quick look inside now avoids a mid-cycle snap.
Step Recap You Can Print
- Unplug and pull the dryer forward.
- Release the top; remove two screws; lift off the front.
- Relieve idler tension and pull the old belt.
- Wrap the new belt around the drum, ribs inward.
- Route over motor pulley and around idler; set tension.
- Hand-spin one turn to check tracking and seal fit.
- Reinstall front panel and top; reconnect the harness.
- Test on Air Fluff; listen for smooth, steady rotation.
When To Add Slides Or Idler Parts
If the belt failure came with a chalky black dust and a scrape at the drum’s front edge, the slides are worn. Replace slides in a set so the drum height stays even. If the idler pulley wobbles or squeals by hand, install a new idler with the belt. Doing both at once keeps the belt tracking straight and cuts repeat cabinet openings.
Where To Find Verified Diagrams
For the exact cabinet opening sequence and routing on your model, use GE’s literature site linked above. You can also pull parts pages linked from your model that show the belt path at the motor and idler. These official pages are the fastest way to confirm screw locations, clip positions, and belt length for your unit.
FAQ-Style Notes Without The Fluff
How Long Does The Swap Take?
Plan 30–60 minutes the first time. Most of that is cabinet access and vacuuming while you’re in there.
Do I Need To Remove The Drum?
Not on many GE designs. With the front off, you can lift the drum a touch and route the belt underneath by hand. Some legacy units benefit from sliding the drum forward an inch for room.
What If The Drum Still Won’t Turn?
Recheck routing at the motor/idler, confirm the door switch engages, and make sure the blower wheel turns freely. If the motor only hums with a correct belt path, the motor or capacitor may be failing.
You’re Done
With a matched belt, clean routing, and a smooth idler, a GE dryer tumbles quietly again. Keep the vent clear, and that belt should last for years.