To replace door locks, remove the old hardware, prep the door, then fit and secure the new latch, strike, and keyed set or deadbolt.
Swapping a lock looks tricky, but it’s a straightforward job with the right prep. This guide shows each step with plain language, solid checks, and clear visuals you can follow at your own pace. Nice and tidy. You’ll learn which lock fits your door, what tools to grab, and how to avoid the common snags that slow people down.
How To Replace Door Locks: Tools, Parts, Timings
Before you start, set out everything on a flat surface near the door. Most homes use standard bored locks: a knob or lever set and a separate deadbolt. If your door is pre-bored, this is a perfect DIY project for a free hour on a weekend afternoon. If you’ve wondered how to replace door locks, the steps below keep things simple and repeatable.
| Item | What It’s For | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| New Lockset Or Deadbolt | The hardware you’re installing | Match finish, style, and door handing |
| Latch & Strike Plate | Secures the door to the frame | Use the plates that ship with the new lock |
| Phillips Screwdriver | Most screws on locks | A hand driver gives better feel than a drill |
| Drill & Bits | Speed removal/installation | Have 1" spade/auger bit for latch bore tweaks |
| Chisel & Hammer | Strike/latch mortise touch-ups | Sharp 1" chisel handles small wood trims |
| Tape Measure | Check backset and bore sizes | Backset is 2-3/8" or 2-3/4" on most doors |
| Painter’s Tape & Pencil | Mark lines and protect finishes | Great for strike alignment marks |
| Lubricant (Dry) | Smoother action | Use graphite or PTFE; skip oil that attracts grit |
Step-By-Step: Remove, Prep, Install
1) Remove The Old Lock
Open the door. Back out the two inside-face screws on the knob or lever. Pull both halves apart while supporting the outside half so it doesn’t drop. Next, remove the two screws on the edge of the door to slide out the latch. Keep the parts in a small tray so nothing goes missing.
2) Confirm Door Measurements
Measure the bore hole across (usually 2-1/8"). Measure the backset from the door edge to the bore center (often 2-3/8" or 2-3/4"). Check door thickness (most are 1-3/8" or 1-3/4"). A new kit often includes an adjustable latch that fits both backsets and thickness ranges.
3) Test-Fit The New Latch
Slide the latch into the edge bore with the curved face pointing toward the closing direction. The faceplate should sit flush. If it sits proud, score the outline with a knife, then pare a hair of wood with a sharp chisel. Go slow. Fast, deep cuts lead to gaps you can see from across the room.
4) Install The Exterior And Interior Trim
Feed the exterior spindle or tailpiece through the latch. Hold it steady while you set the interior trim in place. Thread the two long screws by hand first so they catch cleanly, then snug them with a screwdriver. Check that the lever or knob turns and springs back without drag.
5) Fit The Strike Plate
Close the door and look at the mark the latch leaves on the jamb. The strike hole should meet the latch tongue dead center. If it misses high or low, shift the plate a few millimeters. If it misses front to back, deepen the pocket or shim behind the plate. Drive the long screw into the stud for extra bite.
6) Add Or Swap The Deadbolt
For a separate deadbolt, repeat the steps: latch first, then trim, then strike. Keep the tailpiece vertical when the bolt is retracted. That small detail prevents a half-turn bind later. When you close the door, throw the bolt a few times. It should slide without scraping.
Replacing Door Locks On A House: What To Know
Not every lock is the same. Grade ratings, hardware height, and door prep vary. Picking the right set and mounting it in the right spot gives smooth use and better pick and kick resistance.
Pick The Right Grade
ANSI/BHMA grades run 1 through 3, with grade 1 at the top. The grade reflects lab tests for cycle counts, strength, and other checks. Many makers print a grade on the box or list it online. When you want tougher hardware for an entry, choose a higher grade. You can read a plain summary on the BHMA product grade levels page, which explains how grades map to performance tests.
Mount At A Comfortable Height
Most doors place the handle around 36" to the center and the deadbolt a few inches above that. Model codes allow a range. If you need a reference from a code book, the IBC sets a window from 34" to 48" for many devices used by hand. That range suits kids and adults and keeps hardware aligned with common pre-bored slabs.
Plan For Smart Features Or Re-Keying
Smart deadbolts add keypads, batteries, and a bigger tailpiece. Check interior clearance if you have a storm door. If you use a re-key system, keep the tool in a labeled bag so it doesn’t vanish in a junk drawer.
Safety Notes That Matter
A double-cylinder deadbolt (keyed on both sides) can slow an exit in an emergency. Many areas limit where you can use one. If you already have a double-cylinder on a main exit, swap to a single-cylinder style with a thumbturn on the inside. Use a reinforced strike with long screws on entry doors. That simple upgrade helps the frame hold under force.
Common Fit Issues With New Locks
Most snags come from alignment. A tight latch, a bolt that rubs, or a handle that sags can make a new set feel old on day one. Run through the quick table below to sort the source and a fast fix.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Quick Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Latch Won’t Catch | Strike too low or high | Shift plate; adjust hinges; add or remove shims |
| Deadbolt Binds | Bolt hits side of strike | Enlarge pocket; set strike deeper; square the door |
| Handle Sags | Loose through-bolts or return spring | Tighten screws; reset spring or replace |
| Key Turns But Won’t Retract | Tall tailpiece or mis-placed cam | Re-seat tailpiece; follow model diagram |
| Door Scrapes Jamb | Hinge screws loose | Drive a long screw into the stud to pull jamb tight |
| Noisy Operation | Dry parts or metal rub | Add dry lube; check for burrs; avoid oily sprays |
| Wiggle At The Knob | Short screws used by mistake | Use the supplied long machine screws |
Pro-Level Touches That Make A Difference
Use A Template For Fresh Bores
If your slab isn’t pre-bored, a door lock installation kit keeps holes straight and clean. Clamp the guide, drill the cross bore, then the edge bore. Back the bit out as soon as the pilot peeks through the far face, then finish from the other side to reduce tear-out.
Reinforce The Strike Area
Swap short screws for 3" screws on the strike and top hinge. They bite framing lumber, not just the jamb. Add a box strike if your kit includes one. It gives the bolt a deeper pocket and spreads force across more wood fibers.
Label And Store Spare Parts
Every kit ships with a small bag of extras: a second faceplate, a different strike, and a handful of screws. Label that bag and tape it to the inside of the sink cabinet or closet shelf. The next person who services the door will thank you.
When A Locksmith Makes Sense
You can handle a standard swap. Call a pro when the door is steel with a reinforcement wrap, when the cylinder is part of a mortise case, or when a keypad ties into an alarm panel. A locksmith can also re-key a stack of locks to one key, fix a warped jamb, or match a historic set where screw spacing differs from modern gear.
Care And Checks After Installation
Work The Hardware
Lock and unlock ten times with the door open, then ten times closed. Feel for any rubs or stalls. If anything drags, fix it now rather than living with a sticky handle.
Protect The Finish
Finger oils and sea air can dull brass and darken bronze. Wipe with a soft cloth during normal cleaning. Skip harsh cleaners. A light coat of paste wax on the exterior trim helps water bead and makes fingerprints easier to wipe.
Keep A Spare Key Safe
Place a spare with a neighbor you trust or in a coded key safe. Avoid hiding a key under a mat or rock. Thieves know those spots. If you change roommates or contractors cycle through, re-key the cylinder so old keys no longer work.
Quick Recap And Time Budget
Set tools, confirm sizes, insert latch, mount trim, align strike, then test. A simple knob swap runs 20–30 minutes. Add another 15–20 minutes for a deadbolt. First-timers may take longer, and that’s fine. Care beats speed. After you learn how to replace door locks once, the next door goes faster. Done.