To reseat a toilet, replace the seal, set the bowl square on the flange, tighten bolts evenly, and test for leaks.
Leaks at the base, a faint sewer smell, or a wobbly bowl point to a failed seal. This guide shows you how to reseat a toilet safely and cleanly, with field-tested steps that stop drips and odors. You’ll learn when to choose wax versus wax-free, how to correct flange height, and the right way to tighten bolts so the porcelain stays intact. If you searched “How to Reseat a Toilet,” you’re in the right place.
Tools And Materials You’ll Need
Lay everything out before you loosen a bolt. A smooth setup keeps the flange open for less time and limits odor.
| Item | What It Does | Pro Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Adjustable wrench | Removes supply line and nuts | Keep two for counter-hold |
| Bucket & sponge | Empties tank and bowl | A shop vac speeds this up |
| Wet/dry vac | Clears standing water | Vacuum the trap bend |
| Putty knife | Scrapes off old wax | Plastic blade avoids scratches |
| Rags or towel | Plugs the drain opening | Blocks odor while you work |
| New closet bolts | Anchors the bowl | Use locking washers or tabs |
| Wax ring or wax-free seal | Makes a gas- and water-tight seal | Match height to flange |
| Flange repair ring/extension | Fixes damaged or low flange | Stainless screws hold best |
| Silicone caulk | Seals base to floor | Leave a small gap at back |
| Braided supply line | Feeds the tank | Swap old lines now |
| Utility knife | Cuts old caulk | Score around the base first |
| Level & shims | Checks sit; stops rock | Shim before final caulk |
Safety And Setup
Wear gloves and eye protection. Turn off the shutoff valve, flush, hold the handle to drain, then remove pooled water from tank and bowl. Keep a rag in the drain whenever the toilet is off the flange. That blocks sewer gas and dropped hardware.
How to Reseat a Toilet: Step-By-Step
1) Shut Off And Drain
Turn the angle stop clockwise. Disconnect the supply line from the tank. Flush. Sop up the last puddle with a sponge or vacuum. Pop the bolt caps, remove the nuts, and score the old caulk at the base. A clear, photo-driven walk-through is here: Home Depot toilet install guide.
2) Lift The Toilet
Grip the bowl near the base, not the tank. Rock gently to break the caulk, then lift straight up. Set the toilet on cardboard or a towel. If it’s a two-piece unit and weight is an issue, separate the tank first.
3) Clean The Flange
Scrape every trace of wax from the flange and the horn of the toilet with a putty knife. Remove old bolts. Check the flange for cracks, missing ears, or low height. The ideal top of flange sits level and a hair above the finished floor. If it’s below the floor, add an approved extender; if damaged, add a repair ring or replace per local code. For height basics and extenders, see Oatey’s guidance on flange height and extensions.
4) Set New Bolts
Slide new closet bolts into the flange slots at 9 and 3 o’clock. Use plastic retainers or a small nut to hold them upright. Lay the bolt ends parallel to the back wall to make alignment easy when you drop the bowl.
5) Choose The Right Seal
Wax rings are cheap and proven, in standard or extra-thick versions. Some include a plastic horn. Wax-free seals use rubber or PVC to compress against the pipe and can be reused if you need a second attempt. Pick based on flange height, floor build-up, and your comfort with alignment.
6) Place The Seal
Center the wax ring on the flange with the tapered side up, or press it to the toilet outlet—pick one method and stick with it to avoid a misaligned ring. For wax-free, follow the kit’s order: gasket on the horn, then alignment sleeve if included.
7) Set The Bowl
Lift the bowl high enough to clear the bolts. Sight straight down, aim the holes over the bolts, and lower in one clean motion. Once the ring is kissing the porcelain, don’t spin the toilet; that can smear the ring. Press down with your body weight to compress the seal evenly.
8) Tighten Evenly
Add washers and nuts. Snug each side a few turns, alternating left and right. Stop as soon as the bowl feels solid; over-tightening can crack the base. Trim the bolts and snap on new caps.
9) Reconnect And Test
Install a new braided supply line if the old one shows age. Open the valve, let the tank fill, and flush several times while you watch the base. Dry a paper towel and run it around the rim to check for weeping. If the bowl rocks, add composite shims under the base and re-snug the nuts.
10) Seal The Base
Run a neat bead of 100% silicone around the base where it meets the floor. Tool it smooth. Leave a small gap at the back edge as a tell-tale so future leaks show up. Many jurisdictions require this seal; see IPC 405.5 for the language on sealing fixture joints.
Wax Versus Wax-Free: Which Seal Should You Use?
Both seal types work when installed correctly. Wax is simple and doesn’t spring back, which makes it forgiving. A wax-free seal is tidy, lets you lift and reset the bowl if needed, and can bridge odd heights with the right kit. Choose based on flange condition and floor height.
When Wax Rings Shine
- Standard flanges that sit at the right height
- One-and-done installs where the bowl won’t move again
- Cold rooms where rubber gaskets might stiffen
When Wax-Free Helps
- Floors built up with tile or vinyl where a reusable gasket saves retries
- Warm installs where compression gaskets seat smoothly
- Repairs that need extensions or deeper engagement into the drain
Common Mistakes To Avoid
Stacking Rings
Stacking multiple wax rings invites misalignment and leaks. If the flange sits low, use a flange extender or a single extra-thick ring.
Twisting The Bowl
Once the ring makes contact, don’t twist. Press straight down to keep the seal intact.
Cranking The Nuts
Porcelain cracks when overtightened. Snug both sides evenly and stop once the bowl stops rocking.
Skipping The Base Seal
Sealing the joint where the base meets the floor helps block mop water, smells, and pests. A neat silicone bead does the job. Many codes call for sealing this joint, which is why you’ll see caulk called out in trade guides.
How To Fix Flange Height And Damage
If the flange top sits below the floor, add an extension ring system that raises the rim to meet the finished surface. If ears are broken or the ring is cracked, a stainless repair ring can capture new bolts and restore clamping force. Secure repairs with corrosion-resistant screws into sound subfloor.
Reseating For Low Or High Flanges
| Flange Situation | What To Use | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Flange 1/4" below floor | Extender kit or extra-thick wax | Extender is the cleaner long-term fix |
| Flange at floor level | Standard wax or wax-free | Confirm bolts are solid |
| Flange above floor | Wax-free that fits inside pipe | Check kit for height range |
| Broken flange ears | Repair ring | Anchor with stainless screws |
| Out-of-level flange | Leveling shims under base | Shim first, then caulk |
| Lead or cast iron flange | Consult local code/qualified pro | Special methods may apply |
| Subfloor soft or spongy | Fix the floor before reseating | Movement breaks seals |
Testing And Final Checks
Fill the tank and dye the bowl water with food coloring. With a dry base, place paper towels around the perimeter and flush a few times. Any color on the towels signals a leak. Sit on the bowl to load the seal and repeat. If dry, trim any shims flush and finish the caulk bead.
Care And Preventive Tips
- Swap the supply line every 5–10 years or at the first sign of corrosion.
- Keep a small gap at the back of the base bead to reveal leaks quickly.
- A gentle hand wins. If a nut doesn’t want to move, add penetrating oil and take your time.
Why These Steps Work
Reseating succeeds when three planes line up: the flat of the floor, the top of the flange, and the base of the bowl. A clean, centered ring fills the gap; even pressure compresses it; solid bolts keep it tight. The brief checklist below helps you verify that alignment before you walk away. Here again is the phrase you searched: How to Reseat a Toilet, because that’s exactly what this process delivers from start to finish.
Quick Walk-Away Checklist
- Flange cleaned, intact, correct height
- New bolts aligned and held upright
- Single, correct-height seal centered
- Bowl set once, pressed straight down
- Nuts snugged evenly; bowl solid with no rock
- Supply leak-free; base sealed with a neat bead
- Final flush test dry
Helpful References
For code language on sealing the base, see IPC 405.5. For a photo guide to swaps, review the Home Depot toilet install guide. For flange-height basics and extension kits, consult a major manufacturer’s technical pages.