How to Strip Linoleum Floors

To strip linoleum floors, use a neutral-pH stripper, mild pads, short dwell time, then rinse twice and dry before new finish.

Linoleum can look dull when layers of old finish trap soil or turn yellow. This guide shows how to strip linoleum floors safely with the right products, pads, and timing, so you can reset the surface and lay down a fresh, even coat. You’ll find a clear supply list, step-by-step moves, dwell time tips, and fixes for common snags.

Stripping Linoleum Floors Safely: Tools And Timing

Linoleum is plant-based and sensitive to strong alkalis and aggressive scrubbing. That’s why neutral-pH or linoleum-specific strippers and lighter pads are the play. A careful dwell, gentle agitation, and thorough rinsing protect the wear layer while removing the built-up finish.

Tools And Supplies Checklist

Item	Why It Matters	Notes
Neutral-pH Or Linoleum-Safe Stripper	Lifts acrylic finish without harming pH-sensitive linoleum	Check label for “linoleum” use and pH near neutral
Cold Or Room-Temp Water	Mixes stripper and controls softening of linoleum	Warm water can soften the surface too much
White Or Light-Duty Pads	Agitates finish without gouging	Avoid black/heavy stripping pads on linoleum
Auto-Scrubber Or Low-RPM Floor Machine	Even contact and controlled pressure	Keep speed low; test pressure on a corner
Wet Vac Or Auto-Scrubber Pickup	Removes slurry before it re-sets	Work in small sections to stay ahead
Neutral Cleaner For Rinse	Stops chemical action and clears residue	Two rinses beat one for clarity
Personal Protective Equipment	Guards eyes, skin, and lungs	Gloves, goggles, and ventilation are standard
Microfiber Mops & Buckets	Even application and rinse control	Color-code to avoid cross-contamination
Painter’s Tape & Signs	Protects edges and keeps traffic off	Mark sections and set a safe perimeter

This section lays out the full process from setup to final rinse. It’s designed so a small team can move through a kitchen, hall, or lobby with predictable results.

Prep The Room

Clear furniture, mats, and movable fixtures. Vacuum or dust-mop to remove grit. Post wet-floor signs and block entries. Tape thresholds and protect adjacent wood or carpet. Crack windows or switch on mechanical ventilation. Put on gloves and eye protection. If your space lacks airflow, add a fan to keep fumes moving away from you.

Mix A Linoleum-Safe Stripping Solution

Read the label and mix the stripper with cold or room-temp water in a clean bucket or auto-scrubber tank. Neutral-pH or linoleum-specific strippers are made for pH-sensitive floors and help avoid swelling or bleaching. Manufacturers of Marmoleum note that high-pH chemicals can damage the surface, so the safer route is neutral products and careful rinsing. See the Forbo Marmoleum floor care guidance for the general caution on high-pH cleaners.

Work In Small Sections

Start with a 6×8-foot area. Flood the section with stripper using a mop. Aim for even coverage without puddles. Set a timer.

Let It Dwell (Short And Controlled)

Give the solution time to loosen the finish. On linoleum, shorter is smarter: start at 5 minutes and cap around 10, checking often. The goal is softened finish, not softened flooring. Touch a small spot with a gloved finger; if it smears, you’re ready to scrub.

Agitate With Light Pads

Use white or light-duty pads under a low-RPM machine or auto-scrubber. Keep the head moving. Overlap passes. Don’t bear down or park the machine in one place. For edges and corners, use a doodlebug with a white pad by hand.

Lift The Slurry Fast

Vacuum the wet slurry before it re-adheres. A squeegee/wet-vac combo or the auto-scrubber pickup works well. If you’re using mops only, pull the slurry toward you and pick it up promptly.

Rinse, Inspect, And Repeat Lightly If Needed

Rinse with a neutral cleaner, then rinse again with clean water. Check the sheen from several angles. If spots still look patchy, re-apply stripper in just those areas with a shorter dwell and a light pass. Avoid multiple full-strength cycles across the whole room unless the finish is deep.

Dry Time And Airflow

Let the floor air-dry before any polish or finish. Keep fans running and traffic off the floor. Residual moisture under a new coat can haze and trap streaks.

Timing, Dwell, And Pad Choice

Linoleum loosens quickly when it’s bathed in water and chemicals. Control each variable: short dwell, gentle pads, and cool water. Heavy black pads and caustic strippers are made for resilient vinyl, not linoleum. A white pad is usually enough after a few minutes of dwell; a red pad can be acceptable in tough spots with a light touch.

When To Strip Versus Deep Clean

Strip only when daily cleaning and spray buffing no longer restore clarity. If the finish is thin and the floor looks flat after a mop, try a neutral cleaner scrub and rinse first. Save stripping cycles for real build-up or discoloration.

Safety, Labels, And PPE

Stripping chemistry can irritate eyes, skin, and lungs. Wear gloves and goggles. Keep ventilation running. Many safety data sheets advise masks if airflow is poor. You can review typical precautions in professional guides such as the SC Johnson Professional floor stripping procedures, which also lays out sectioning, signage, and pickup steps.

Step-By-Step Recap You Can Print

Clear the area, post signs, gear up, and set ventilation.
Dry sweep to remove grit.
Mix a neutral-pH or linoleum-safe stripper with cool water.
Flood a 6×8-foot section evenly.
Dwell 5–10 minutes, checking softening every minute after 5.
Scrub with a white pad; use hand pad along edges.
Vacuum the slurry immediately.
Rinse with neutral cleaner, then a clean water rinse.
Repeat lightly on stubborn patches only.
Air-dry fully before any new finish.

Common Mistakes And Easy Fixes

Using The Wrong Stripper

High-pH products can stain or swell linoleum. Swap to a neutral-pH or linoleum-labeled stripper. Keep dwell short and rinse thoroughly.

Over-Aggressive Pads

Black pads can scuff and leave burnish marks. Switch to white. If you need a hair more bite, test red on a closet corner with a light hand.

Too Much Dwell

Soft flooring edges and curling corners point to dwell that ran long or warm water. Reduce dwell and keep water cool. Work in smaller zones to speed removal.

Residue After Rinse

Haze often means the slurry sat too long or rinse water was dirty. Vacuum faster and change rinse buckets more often. A second neutral rinse usually clears it.

Uneven Look After Recoat

Missed patches of old finish can telegraph through new coats. Hold a low light at the floor before you recoat and touch up any dull islands with a short re-strip.

Troubleshooting Guide

Problem	Likely Cause	Quick Fix
Yellow Cast After Strip	High-pH product or long dwell	Switch to neutral stripper; shorter dwell; double rinse
Film Or Haze	Slurry dried before pickup	Smaller sections; faster vacuum; fresh rinse water
Scuff Circles	Pad too aggressive or parked machine	Use white pads; keep head moving; lighten pressure
Edge Curling	Excess water or heat at seams	Cool water; reduce liquid at edges; dab and dry
Sticky Feel After Dry	Residue left from stripper	Neutral cleaner rinse; clean water rinse; dry fully
Uneven Gloss After Recoat	Old finish islands or trapped moisture	Spot re-strip; allow full dry time before new coats
Odor Lingers	Poor airflow	Open returns and windows; add fans; run HVAC

How Often Should You Strip?

There’s no calendar rule. Go by performance. If daily cleaning and a buff no longer bring back clarity, plan a strip. In light-traffic homes, that might be every year or two. In busy corridors, you may need targeted strips on lanes while leaving edges alone.

Recoat After Stripping

Once dry, apply thin coats of a polish that states linoleum compatibility. Two to four thin coats beat two thick ones. Let each coat cure per the label before the next pass. Keep airflow up and foot traffic off the floor until it reaches a firm set.

Edge Work And Baseboards

Mask baseboards to stop splash marks. Apply stripper to edges with a controlled hand pad. Keep liquids away from open seams and transitions. Wipe bases and thresholds as you move; dried drips take time to remove later.

Small-Area Workflow For Homes

In a kitchen or bath, you can skip the machine and use hand pads with careful timing. Flood a 3×4-foot patch, dwell five minutes, scrub by hand, then towel up the slurry before a rinse. Move in a grid. This keeps liquids contained and gives better control over seams and edges.

Cost, Time, And Coverage

Most neutral-pH strippers list a coverage range on the label. Plan for extra in high-build areas. Budget time for rinse and dry; rushing the dry is the fastest way to cloud the first new coat.

Typical Planning Numbers

Chemical: 1 gallon of concentrate usually covers several hundred square feet when diluted.
Labor: A two-person team can process a small kitchen in a morning, including recoat prep.
Dry Time: Before recoat, the surface should feel cool but not tacky when you touch it lightly with a clean hand.

Pro Tips For A Clean Reset

Map sections with tape so dwell alarms don’t overlap and you don’t lose track.
Keep a second bucket for rinse only; swap water often.
Shine a flashlight across the floor after the first rinse; haze pops under low, raking light.
If you must re-work a patch, cut dwell in half the second time.
Store pads flat and clean; a dirty pad drags soil across the surface.

Product Label Checks That Matter

Before you buy, scan three lines: floor types listed, recommended pH, and whether the label names linoleum. Brands make neutral strippers that call out linoleum, rubber, or other pH-sensitive floors. This small label check saves you from bleaching or softening the surface and keeps the warranty story clean.

Why Neutral-pH Wins On Linoleum

Linseed oil and fillers in linoleum react to high alkalinity. Neutral-pH strippers loosen acrylic finishes without the harsh bite. That’s why many tech sheets and care guides steer users to neutral chemistry and gentle pads for this material.

Final Walkthrough Before Recoat

Do a slow lap. Check edges, corners, and around toe-kicks with a flashlight. If you can draw a clear fingertip line without drag, you’re ready for polish. If the floor feels sticky, run another neutral rinse and let it dry fully.

Putting It All Together

With the right setup, how to strip linoleum floors comes down to a steady rhythm: short dwell, light scrub, fast pickup, clean rinses, and full dry. Stick to neutral chemistry, keep pads gentle, and give yourself time to finish each section before you start the next. That’s how you reset the surface and bring back a clear, even base for new shine.