How to Take Apart the Original Xbox

How to take apart the original xbox starts with the hidden bottom screws, then the drive tray, then the main board in a clean, labeled order.

The original Xbox is friendly to work on once you know where the “gotcha” spots are: the hidden case screws, the tight drive cables, and the front-panel wiring. This walkthrough keeps it simple and calm. You’ll end with parts laid out in a way that makes reassembly feel doable, not like a puzzle with missing pieces.

Tools And Prep That Keep The Console Intact

Give yourself a clear table, bright light, and a small container for screws nearby. Unplug the console and let it sit a few minutes so any stored charge bleeds off. If you’ve got a wrist strap, clip it to bare metal on a grounded object. If you don’t, just touch a grounded metal item now and then.

Take quick photos with your phone as you go. They’re your memory, especially for cable routing and screw locations. A roll of painter’s tape and a pen also helps: tape a tag to each cable you unplug and write where it goes.

Item	What It’s For	Notes
T10 Torx driver	Case screws on many units	Use a snug bit to avoid stripping
T15 Torx driver	Drive cage and shielding screws	Common inside the shell
T20 Torx driver	Some case screws by revision	Have it ready, even if unused
Small flat plastic pry tool	Lifting feet and gentle clips	Avoid metal on soft plastic
Phillips #1 driver	Occasional internal fasteners	Not used on each unit
Painter’s tape + pen	Labeling cables and screws	Prevents “where did this go?” moments
Magnetic parts tray	Keeping screws grouped	Sort by step, not by size
Isopropyl alcohol 90%+	Cleaning old thermal paste	Use with lint-free wipes
Thermal paste	Fresh contact on CPU/GPU	Only if you remove heatsinks

Before You Open It, Check Two Things

First, flip the console and look at the rubber feet and labels. The six case screws are hidden under feet and stickers, so plan to peel them back gently. Second, decide how far you’re going. If you only need to replace the hard drive, DVD drive, or clean dust, you can stop after the drive tray comes out.

How to Take Apart the Original Xbox With Clean Steps

This section is the core tear down. Move slowly, keep parts grouped, and don’t force connectors. If something won’t budge, there’s usually a screw still in place or a cable still attached.

Step 1 Remove The Case Screws

Turn the Xbox upside down on a soft towel so the top shell won’t get scuffed.
Peel back the four rubber feet and the two labels that cover screws. A plastic pry tool helps lift edges without ripping.
Remove the six Torx screws. Many units use T20 for the outer case, though you may see T10 on some.
Turn the console right-side up and lift the top shell straight up.

Step 2 Lift Out The Drive Tray

You’ll see the DVD drive and hard drive sitting in a metal tray. Before pulling anything, spot the wide IDE ribbon cable and the power leads. The connectors are tight by design, so wiggle them side to side while pulling, not straight up with brute force.

Unplug the power cable from the hard drive and the DVD drive.
Unplug the IDE ribbon from both drives. Note which end went to which device.
Remove the screws that hold the tray to the chassis, then lift the tray out as a unit.

If you want a second set of photos and screw maps, the iFixit Xbox Disassembly guide matches the same overall order and shows the hidden screw points clearly.

Step 3 Disconnect The Front Panel And Fan Leads

The front panel has the power/eject board and the controller port assembly. These parts connect with small plugs that can be easy to tug at the wires by mistake. Pinch the connector body, then pull.

Unplug the front panel header from the motherboard.
Unplug the fan connector.
If you plan to remove the controller port block, remove its mounting screws and lift it out gently.

Step 4 Remove Shielding And The Motherboard

Under the tray sits a large metal shield that also acts as a ground plane. Take note of where each screw came from; lengths can vary. Once the shield is off, the motherboard can lift out with a small tilt.

Remove the screws holding the metal shield.
Lift the shield away and set it aside.
Check for any remaining cables: video daughter boards on some revisions, fan lead, and front header.
Remove the motherboard screws, then lift the board out by its edges.

Step 5 Optional Heatsink And Thermal Paste Refresh

If you’re chasing random shutdowns, loud fan behavior, or heat-related lockups, a paste refresh can help. Only do this if you’re comfortable cleaning and reapplying paste. The heatsinks are held by clips on the underside of the board, so work over a padded surface.

Release the heatsink clips carefully.
Lift the heatsinks straight up. Old paste may feel like glue, so a gentle twist helps.
Clean both mating surfaces with isopropyl alcohol and lint-free wipes.
Apply a small dot of fresh paste and reinstall the heatsinks with even pressure.

Common Snags And How To Avoid Them

Stripped Torx Screws

Torx heads strip when the driver is the wrong size or sits at an angle. Press down firmly, keep the bit straight, and turn slowly. If a screw starts to round, stop and change to a sharper bit before it gets worse.

Stuck Feet And Torn Labels

If you care about keeping the bottom tidy, warm the feet or stickers with your hand for a minute, then peel slowly. Set each sticky piece on clean plastic so it can be reused during reassembly.

IDE Cable Confusion

The stock ribbon cable can fold into odd shapes. When you unplug it, note the direction of the colored stripe and which connector was on the hard drive vs the DVD drive. A single phone photo saves a lot of head-scratching later.

Reassembly Order That Cuts Mistakes

Reassembly is just the same steps in reverse, with one trick: don’t tighten all screws at once. Start each screw a few turns, line parts up, then snug them down. It keeps shields flat and avoids cross-threading.

Motherboard in, then its screws.
Metal shield on, then shield screws.
Front header and fan plugged back in.
Drive tray lowered in, then tray screws.
IDE ribbon seated fully, then both drive power plugs.
Top shell on, then the six case screws.
Feet and labels pressed back down.

Before the final shell goes on, plug the AV cable and power cord in and do a 10-second test boot. Watch the fan spin, listen for the hard drive, then shut it back down. This quick peek can save a full reopen if a plug is loose. Keep your hands clear of the power supply area while it’s live, and don’t run it long with shields removed. You’re only checking signs of life here.

Label the screws, then reset your tools.

Checks To Run Before Closing The Lid

Do a quick visual pass before you trap anything under the shell. Look for wires resting on sharp metal edges, ribbon cables folded too tightly, and connectors that are half-seated. Then do a light shake test; nothing inside should rattle.

Symptom After Reassembly	Likely Spot	Fast Check
No power at all	Front panel header	Reseat the front connector on the board
Powers on, then off	Fan plug or heatsink fit	Confirm fan connector, check heatsink clips
Disc drive won’t open	DVD power lead	Reseat the DVD power connector
Error screen about HDD	IDE ribbon orientation	Check stripe direction and full insertion
Grinding noise	Tray not seated	Loosen tray screws, realign, retighten
Overheats or loud fan	Dust or paste	Clear vents, confirm heatsink contact
Buttons don’t respond	Power/eject board lead	Reseat the small front board cable

Cleaning While You’re In There

Dust builds up in the heatsink fins and along the rear exhaust. A soft brush and gentle compressed air bursts work well. Hold the fan blades still while you blow air so you don’t overspin the bearings. Wipe the shell with a barely damp cloth, then dry it right away.

When you’re done with parts you won’t reuse, dispose of them through a proper electronics channel. Microsoft lists options on its End-of-life management and recycling page, which can point you to local drop-off routes.

When To Stop And When To Go Deeper

If your goal is a drive swap, clock capacitor check, or basic dust clean, you can stop once the drive tray is out. If you’re chasing odd boot errors, video glitches, or repeated shutdowns, you’ll likely need the motherboard out for a closer look at connectors and caps.

How to Take Apart the Original Xbox Without Losing Screws

Here’s a simple habit that keeps screw chaos away: make six little piles on your table and label them with tape as you go. One pile for case screws, one for tray screws, one for shield screws, one for motherboard screws, one for front panel parts, and one for “odd extras.” That’s it. When you build it back up, you work pile by pile and you’re done.

Once you’ve done it one time, how to take apart the original xbox stops feeling mysterious. It becomes a repeatable routine you can do anytime a drive fails, a belt slips, or the inside just needs a clean.