To tell car paint color, find the OEM paint code on the door-jamb label or use a scanner, then cross-check the code in a refinish database.
How to Tell Car Paint Color: Quick Start Checklist
If you typed “how to tell car paint color” into a search bar, start simple. Clean a small section on a sunlit panel so you judge the hue on clear coat, not dirt. Open the driver’s door and check the certification label. Look for short strings such as “EXT PNT,” “PAINT,” “TRIM/PAINT,” or a two to four character code. Snap a photo. If you don’t see it, check the glove box, trunk lid, or spare-wheel well.
Next, capture the VIN and the build month from the same label. The VIN helps dealers look up the record tied to your car. While the VIN doesn’t store the color itself, a dealer system can use it to retrieve the paint code tied to your build. Keep both the code and the VIN handy when you contact a parts counter or a refinish shop.
| Brand | Label Or Code Format | Usual Location |
|---|---|---|
| Ford/Lincoln | “EXT PNT” + two letters (e.g., UX) | Driver-side door jamb |
| GM (Chevrolet, GMC, Buick) | U/WA + four digits (e.g., WA8624) | Door jamb, glove box, trunk, or spare well |
| Toyota/Lexus | Three alphanumerics (e.g., 1F7) | Driver-door jamb or under hood |
| Honda/Acura | Prefix + numbers (e.g., NH-797M) | Driver-door jamb |
| Nissan/Infiniti | Two or three letters (e.g., QAB) | Driver-door jamb |
| Hyundai/Kia | Two letters (e.g., WAW) | Driver-door jamb |
| BMW/MINI | Name + number (e.g., Alpine White 300) | Under hood or strut tower |
| Mercedes-Benz | Three digits (e.g., 040) | Door jamb or engine bay |
| Volkswagen/Audi | Two to four characters (e.g., LY7W) | Spare-tire area or trunk |
Why The Paint Code Beats Guessing By Eye
Names repeat across makes and years. “Snow White Pearl” from one brand doesn’t match “Snow White” from another, and both can vary by year. A paint code points to a formula in a refinish database. That formula has exact tints and mix ratios so a shop can reproduce it and blend the repair into the surrounding panels.
Even when two cars share the same code, real cars leave the line with small shifts known as variants. Refinish systems list those variant formulas and provide color chips or spray-out cards to compare on the body. This is why shops ask for the code first, then confirm the best-fit variant with light that mimics daylight.
Can A VIN Tell Color Directly?
Not directly. The VIN is a 17-character identifier that encodes make, model year, plant, and other build data. Color isn’t part of the standard pattern. Still, a dealer can use a VIN to pull your build sheet and read the paint code for that exact car. That’s handy when the door label is missing or a respray covered it.
Telling Car Paint Color With The Code—What Matters
Plan your approach. If you have the code, you’re most of the way there. If not, map out the likely label spots and bring a flashlight. Photograph labels so you don’t mistype later. When you reach a shop, they’ll punch the code into their software, pull the formula, and choose a blendable variant after a chip or spray-out check.
When you don’t have a code, a body shop can scan the paint with a handheld spectrophotometer. The scanner samples color at several angles, then suggests the closest formula and variant from its database. It’s not magic. Shops still confirm on a polished test area and may tweak the mix for a near-invisible blend.
Step-By-Step: From Label To A Confirmed Match
1) Prep The Panel
Wash a hand-sized spot near the repair. Clay it if you feel grit. Dry it and wipe with alcohol to remove wax. You want bare, clean clear coat under the scanner or the chip.
2) Find The Code
Open the driver’s door. Scan the label for “paint,” “color,” or short tags like “EXT PNT.” Some brands print a name and a code; others show just the code. If you don’t see it, check the trunk lid, the spare-wheel well, the glove box, or under the hood.
3) Log The VIN
Photograph the full VIN from the same label or the base of the windshield. Keep it for dealer checks or insurance records.
4) Confirm In A Database
Share the code with a refinish shop. They’ll search a paint system for the formula and any variants. If variants exist, they’ll compare chips or make a spray-out to pick the closest blendable choice.
5) Decide Your Repair Path
Small rock chips are fine for touch-up. Larger spots near panel edges call for blending into adjacent panels. A pro will guide you on labor and the chance of a near-invisible result.
How Body Shops Match A Code To Real Paint
Refinish systems tie each code to a base formula and a list of variants. Shops may see tags like Prime, Variant 1, or Variant 2. They’ll compare the chips in daylight or under a color-match lamp, then mix a test cup and spray a card. The card is taped next to the polished panel to judge hue, value, and flop. If it looks right, they mix the batch and blend the panel edges.
Pearls and metallics take extra care. Angle matters because the flake lays down differently based on gun speed, pressure, and reducer. That’s why a shop sprays a larger card at the same distance and air setup planned for the repair. Good prep and blending technique matter as much as the code.
Common Mistakes That Throw Off A Match
Chasing The Name
Color names repeat. Two “Ruby Red” paints can be miles apart. Treat the name as decoration. The code does the real work.
Guessing From Photos
Screens lie. Phone cameras shift white balance and compress highlights. Photos are fine for a rough check with a seller, not for mixing paint.
Ignoring Clear Coat
Oxidized clear looks dull and chalky. Scan or compare on a polished spot next to the repair, not on a faded patch.
Skipping Blend Space
Even a dead-on formula can show an edge if you stop at a body line. Leave room to blend into the next panel where possible.
Ordering By Year/Model Alone
Catalogs can list several codes for one year and model. Without the exact code, you’re guessing. Pull the label or let a shop scan and confirm.
When The Label Is Missing Or The Car Was Resprayed
Many used cars have panels that were repainted. Labels get removed or covered. If the code is gone, rely on a scan and a trained eye. A shop will polish a test spot, scan it, then spray two or three close variants to see which blends best. They can also measure film build to spot prior repairs and advise on the best plan for a tidy result.
How “Tri-Coats” And Pearls Change The Process
Tri-coats stack a ground color, a translucent pearl layer, and clear. The code maps to a ground and a pearl mix. Shops often do two spray-outs: one for the ground and one for the pearl passes. They count passes and duplicate gun settings on the repair so the flop and sparkle match the adjacent panel.
Does Touch-Up Paint Use The Same Code?
Yes. Touch-up pens and aerosols are labeled by the same OEM code. They’re handy for tiny chips on solid colors. On metallics and pearls, a pen can hide the primer dot, but you’ll still see it at angles. For anything larger than pinheads, a pro blend looks cleaner.
Where Your Two Trusted Links Help
VIN decoders list build data, not color, but they’re still handy when you’re trying to confirm a model year or plant before you call the dealer. You can try the official VIN decoder for that lookup. Ford owners can read how its door-label code is marked “EXT PNT” on this paint code help page.
Tools And Supplies That Make Matching Easier
- Smartphone for label photos and record keeping
- Flashlight and a clean rag
- Alcohol wipes for test-spot cleaning
- Polish to remove haze before scanning
- Masking tape to frame a spray-out or protect edges
- Spectrophotometer access at a local shop
- Touch-up kit for tiny chips
Table Of Match Methods And When To Use Them
| Method | Best Use | Limits |
|---|---|---|
| Label Code Lookup | Most repairs when the code is readable | Variants still need chip or spray-out check |
| VIN + Dealer Build Sheet | Lost labels; confirming exact code | Dealer access needed; color not in VIN itself |
| Spectrophotometer Scan | Missing code; panels with fade | Needs clean, polished area and validation |
| Chip Deck Comparison | Quick variant check in good light | Human eye can miss flop shifts |
| Spray-Out Card | Final confirmation before mixing volume | Takes time and test material |
| Touch-Up Pen | Pinhole chips on solid colors | Not for large or metallic areas |
| Professional Blend | Visible spots, edges, pearls, metallics | Shop time and cost |
How You’ll Use This When You Buy Used
Bring a flashlight, your phone, and a small microfiber towel. Photograph the driver-door label. If it’s missing, shoot the trunk edges, the spare-wheel well, and the glove box. Ask the seller about prior bodywork. Scan a polished spot at a shop before you commit to bulk paint or big cosmetic plans. You’ll avoid the hassle of returns and mismatched touch-ups. If you’re teaching a friend how to tell car paint color, this quick routine keeps the process tidy and repeatable.
Final Checks Before You Order Paint
- Confirm the code from the label or dealer record.
- Ask your shop which variant chip or spray-out matched best.
- Order enough for blends, not just the repair footprint.
- Match the basecoat system to the shop’s brand to avoid surprises.
- Save your photos and notes for the next touch-up.