To put tiles on a wall, prep the surface, plan the layout, spread adhesive, set tiles in rows, then grout and seal once everything has cured.
Learning how to put tiles on wall can turn a kitchen splashback or bathroom into a neat, easy-to-wipe surface. This guide breaks wall tiling into clear stages, from checking the wall and picking backing board to grouting and sealing, so you avoid loose tiles and crooked rows.
How To Put Tiles On Wall At A Glance
| Stage | Main Tasks | Typical Time |
|---|---|---|
| Check And Prep Wall | Inspect, repair, prime, fit backer board where needed | 1–3 hours |
| Plan Layout | Measure, mark level lines, dry-lay sample rows | 1–2 hours |
| Set Reference Tiles | Fix first row on a batten, add spacers, check with level | 1–2 hours |
| Tile Main Field | Spread adhesive, press tiles, keep joints even | 2–6 hours |
| Cut Edge Tiles | Mark cuts, trim tiles, fit around corners and fixtures | 1–3 hours |
| Grout And Caulk | Fill joints, tool grout, seal movement joints with caulk | 1–2 hours |
| Clean And Seal | Buff off haze, apply sealer if needed | 1–2 hours |
Check The Wall And Backing First
Wall tiles only stay flat and secure when the surface behind them is strong, dry, and near flat. Industry guides such as the TCNA Handbook for Ceramic, Glass and Stone Tile Installation stress that the backing must carry the weight of the tile and adhesive without flex.
On plasterboard or gypsum walls, repair loose areas, fill cracks, and scrape away flaking paint. In wet rooms or shower areas, many installers switch to cement backer board or other tile boards that resist moisture creep much better than plain plasterboard. These boards give a stable base and cut down the risk of tiles coming loose over time.
Use a long straightedge or level to check how flat the wall is. If you can slide a coin under the straightedge, the hollow is large enough to cause trouble later. Fill shallow dips with patching compound, or in more extreme cases, fix tile backer board over the wall to create a new plane.
Gather Tools And Materials
You do not need a van full of specialist kit to tile a wall, but you do need a core set of tools that match the size and type of tile you plan to use.
Basic Tools
- Measuring tape, pencil, and spirit level
- Tile cutter or wet saw, plus tile nippers for small notches
- Notched trowel sized for your tile, and a flat trowel
- Rubber mallet and rubber grout float
- Tile spacers and tile wedges
- Mixing bucket and mixing paddle or margin trowel
- Sponge, clean cloths, and a scraper for dried adhesive
Materials
- Wall tiles with at least 10 percent extra for cuts and waste
- Thin-set tile adhesive or ready-mixed wall tile adhesive
- Tile grout suited to joint width and room use
- Primer suited to your wall surface and adhesive
- Silicone sealant for corners and changes of plane
- Cement backer board, screws, and tape if upgrading the substrate
Plan The Layout Before Mixing Adhesive
Good layout makes the finished wall look deliberate instead of random. Aim for even cuts at edges and a balanced pattern around sinks, mirrors, or niches.
Measure And Mark Control Lines
Measure the height and width of the area to be tiled. Mark a horizontal line a tile or two above the lowest point where tile will start. Many tilers screw a straight wooden batten along this line to hold the first row level while the adhesive cures.
Use a level to extend that line across the full width of the wall. Also mark a vertical line in the center of the area so you can work out whether it looks better to start with a full tile at the center or to balance equal cuts on both sides.
Step By Step Guide To Putting Tiles On A Wall
Now we reach the main method for tiling a wall, broken down into stages you can follow without rushing. Work on small sections so the adhesive stays fresh while you adjust each tile.
Step 1: Prime And Protect
Mask off nearby surfaces with tape and plastic or paper. Apply primer to dusty or porous walls with a roller or brush, following the product’s drying time. Priming keeps the wall from sucking water from the adhesive too quickly.
Step 2: Mix The Tile Adhesive
Read the instructions on the bag or tub before mixing. Add powder to clean water in a bucket and stir until the mix is smooth with no dry lumps. Let it rest for the stated slake time, then stir again so the adhesive reaches a workable texture.
Step 3: Spread And Comb Adhesive
Using the flat side of the trowel, press a thin coat of adhesive onto the wall within your first small section. Then use the notched side at roughly forty-five degrees to comb straight, even ridges, all running in the same direction to help air escape.
Step 4: Set The First Row Of Tiles
Press the first tile into the adhesive along your batten or bottom line, giving it a slight twist so the ridges collapse and the tile beds fully. Add spacers at each edge, then set the next tile. Check the row with a spirit level every few tiles and adjust with gentle taps from the rubber mallet.
Step 5: Build Up The Main Field
Once the starter row is straight, keep working in small areas above it. Spread adhesive, set tiles, and insert spacers. Stagger vertical joints if you are using a brick bond pattern, following the tile maker’s guidance on the maximum offset for rectangular wall tiles.
Step 6: Cut Tiles For Edges And Obstacles
Measure each cut tile location instead of copying the last one, as walls are rarely perfectly straight. Mark the tile on the glazed face with a pencil, then use a manual cutter or wet saw to make the cut. For notches around sockets or pipes, score and nip small pieces away a bit at a time.
Step 7: Let The Adhesive Cure
When the wall is fully tiled, remove any tape or temporary battens before the adhesive sets hard around them. Avoid loading the wall, leaning ladders on it, or grouting until the adhesive has cured for the period stated by the manufacturer.
Grouting And Finishing Wall Tiles
Grout protects the edges of tiles and ties the whole surface together visually. The way you fill and clean the joints has a big effect on the final look.
Choose And Mix Grout
Pick grout that matches your joint width and room use. Sanded grout handles wider joints, while unsanded grout suits narrow joints on glossy wall tiles. In showers, many tilers prefer cement-based grout with added polymer or epoxy grout for better stain and water resistance.
Fill The Joints
Hold the rubber float at a shallow angle and work grout across the tiles, pressing it firmly into the joints from several directions. Once joints look full, pull the float across the tiles at a steeper angle to remove surplus grout from the surface.
Clean The Tiles After Grouting
Dampen a sponge, wring it out well, then wipe the tiles in gentle circles to smooth the joints and pick up residue. Rinse the sponge often in clean water so you are not spreading a film back over the tiles.
Seal And Caulk Where Needed
Use flexible silicone sealant in internal corners, around bath rims, and where the tiled wall meets a countertop. This creates a joint that can flex slightly without cracking and helps keep water out of the corners.
Common Problems When Putting Tiles On A Wall
Even a careful DIY tiler can run into issues. Spotting them early keeps the project on track and avoids messy rework.
| Problem | What You See | How To Fix It |
|---|---|---|
| Tiles Not Sticking | Hollow sound or tiles move under light pressure | Remove loose tiles, scrape wall, re-tile with fresh adhesive and full coverage |
| Uneven Rows | Joints climb or fall across the wall | Reset tiles while adhesive is wet, use more reference lines and check level often |
| Lippage Between Tiles | Tile edges sit higher or lower than neighbors | Press tiles firmly, use a leveling system, lift and reset badly uneven tiles |
| Cracked Grout | Hairline cracks, mainly at corners or long runs | Rake out cracked grout and refill, add silicone at movement joints |
| Stained Grout | Dark marks in splash zones | Clean with suitable grout cleaner, then apply grout sealer |
| Water Ingress In Wet Areas | Damp patches behind or below tiled surfaces | Check backing board and waterproofing, renew failed caulk, improve ventilation |
Safety And Good Practice Tips
Wear eye protection when cutting tiles and a mask when mixing powders, as sharp shards and dust from cuts can travel further than you expect. Gloves help when handling cut tiles with sharp edges.
Keep the cutting area tidy, keep electrical leads clear of a wet saw, and avoid standing water near tools. Trade guides such as the ANSI A108 ceramic tile installation standard stress the value of correct substrate preparation, suitable adhesive, and controlled joint widths, and the same ideas pay off in a home project.
When To Bring In A Professional Tiler
Large format tiles, natural stone, heavy porcelain slabs, or walls that need full waterproofing or re-framing are best left to a qualified tiler or builder. For a straight tiled splashback or a simple shower wall with sound backing, this step-by-step method for how to put tiles on wall gives you a clear path from bare wall to clean grout lines.