A DIY oil change takes 30–60 minutes: drain, swap the filter, refill with the right grade, then verify level and leaks.
Doing your own oil service keeps the engine protected, saves money, and lets you verify that every step is done right. This guide walks you through the entire process from setup to cleanup with clear instructions, safety tips, and simple checks. You’ll learn what to buy, where to jack the vehicle, how to avoid stripped threads, and the easy way to dispose of used oil responsibly. If you can turn a wrench and read the dipstick, you can handle this job with confidence.
Tools And Supplies You’ll Need
Set everything out before you start. A warm engine drains faster, so you won’t want to fumble around once the drain plug is loose. This checklist covers what most cars require; confirm sizes and capacities in the owner’s manual.
| Item | Why It Matters | Pro Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Correct Motor Oil (right viscosity) | Protects bearings, rings, and cam surfaces across temps | Match the grade and spec your manual calls for |
| New Oil Filter | Traps debris so fresh oil stays clean | Buy the exact part number; quality brands fit better |
| New Drain-Plug Washer | Seals the sump; prevents slow drips | Many crush washers are single-use—replace every time |
| Socket/Wrench Set | Removes the drain bolt and undertrays | Use a six-point socket to avoid rounding the head |
| Torque Wrench | Prevents overtightening and stripped threads | Set to the manual’s spec for the drain bolt and filter |
| Oil Filter Wrench | Helps remove stubborn canisters | Cap-style fits snug and avoids crushing the can |
| Low-Profile Drain Pan (≥8 qt) | Catches the full capacity with room to spare | Pick one with a built-in spout to pour into jugs |
| Gloves, Rags, Cardboard | Keeps hands safe and the floor clean | Slide a flattened box under the pan to catch splashes |
| Floor Jack & Stands/Ramps | Gives access to the drain and filter | Use stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack alone |
| Funnel & Measuring Jug | Prevents spills; helps you pour the exact quantity | Keep a clean funnel reserved for engine oil only |
Before You Start: Pick The Right Oil And Filter
Use the viscosity and specification the manufacturer recommends. Multigrade oils such as 0W-20, 5W-30, or 5W-40 flow well when cold and still protect at operating temperature. For a quick primer on grading and the “W” number, see the API Motor Oil Guide. It’s also wise to match certifications listed in the manual (API/SP, ILSAC GF-6, ACEA, or OEM-specific approvals). Filters should be the exact part number for your engine; the gasket diameter and bypass pressure vary between models, and the wrong unit can leak or starve the engine.
Change Car Engine Oil At Home: Step Sequence
Work methodically, keep clean rags nearby, and double-check each step. Warm oil drains faster and carries more contaminants out, so idle the engine for 3–5 minutes first, then shut it off.
1) Park, Secure, And Lift Safely
Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock a rear wheel. Lift at the marked front center point or the pinch weld jack points. Lower the car onto rated stands or drive onto ramps. Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before sliding underneath.
2) Remove Undertrays (If Fitted)
Many newer cars have a belly pan held by plastic clips or bolts. Photograph fastener locations for quick reassembly. Keep the hardware in a tray so nothing rolls away.
3) Position The Pan And Pull The Drain Plug
Place the drain pan slightly forward of the plug; the stream arcs outward at first. Loosen the bolt with a six-point socket, finish by hand, and pull it away quickly to avoid hot oil on your fingers. Let it drain to a slow drip. Inspect the old washer—aluminum crush rings and some copper rings deform once and should be replaced.
4) Swap The Washer And Reinstall The Plug
Wipe the mating surface on the pan. Fit a new washer in the correct orientation. Thread the bolt by hand until fully seated, then torque to spec. This keeps threads healthy and prevents seepage.
5) Remove The Old Filter
Move the drain pan under the filter area. Spin the canister off by hand or use a cap wrench. Expect a second gush as the filter empties. Check that the old rubber gasket didn’t stick to the housing; two gaskets stacked together will leak.
6) Prep And Install The New Filter
Lightly oil the new gasket with fresh oil. If the filter mounts vertically and the manual allows, pre-fill it halfway to shorten the dry start. Spin on until the gasket touches, then tighten the number of turns printed on the can or torque the cartridge cap to spec.
7) Add Fresh Oil
Place a funnel in the fill port on the valve cover. Pour in about 90% of the listed capacity. Refit the cap. Start the engine for 10–15 seconds to fill the filter and galleries, then shut it off and wait two minutes. Pull the dipstick, wipe, reinsert, and check again. Top up to the upper mark, staying just shy of the max line.
8) Check For Leaks And Refit Panels
With the engine idling, look around the drain plug and filter base. A dry paper towel dabbed on the area makes tiny leaks easy to see. Reinstall the undertray, tighten fasteners snugly, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
9) Reset The Service Reminder
Most cars let you reset the maintenance reminder through the dash menu. Others require a simple button sequence. Your manual or the infotainment settings will list the steps.
10) Record The Mileage And Date
Write the odometer reading, oil type, and filter brand on a piece of tape under the hood or in a notes app. This helps you track intervals and diagnose issues later.
How Long It Takes And What It Costs
Plan for 30–60 minutes from setup to wipe-down. The time swings with access: a top-mounted filter on a small four-cylinder is quick; a skid-plate SUV with a cartridge housing adds steps. Cost depends on capacity and brand. Many cars take 4–6 quarts; trucks and performance models may take 7–10. Quality oil and a good filter usually land between the price of a coupon-book shop visit and a dealer visit, with the benefit that you control the parts and the exact process.
What Oil Grade Should You Pour?
Match the viscosity grade and certification in the manual for your engine and climate. Cold winters call for lower “W” numbers for easier cranking; hot regions may allow a higher second number. The grading system is standardized, and the industry’s guide explains how the two numbers work together. If you want a clear, non-marketing explanation, the API Motor Oil Guide breaks it down in plain terms.
Intervals: When To Replace Engine Oil
Your car likely lists an oil life monitor or a mileage/time interval. Short trips, lots of idling, dusty roads, and heavy towing shorten the life of the additive package. High-quality oil still ages; moisture and fuel dilution add up over time. Use the stricter number between miles and months.
| Driving Pattern | Typical Interval | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Mostly Highway, Steady Speeds | 5,000–10,000 miles or per OLM | Engines reach full temp; less fuel dilution |
| Short Trips, Cold Starts | 3,000–5,000 miles or 6 months | Condensation and rich cold starts age oil faster |
| Towing, Hot Weather, Dust | 3,000–5,000 miles | High load and dirt demand tighter service windows |
Common Mistakes And Easy Fixes
Overtightening The Drain Plug
Cranking the bolt too hard flattens the washer and can strip pan threads. Always start the bolt by hand, then use a torque wrench. If threads feel gritty, stop and clean them before you proceed.
Double-Gasketed Filter
When the old gasket sticks to the housing and the new filter is spun on, you’ll get a sudden leak. Check the base every time. If you spot a drip, shut the engine off and remove the extra gasket.
Wrong Filter Or Crushed Canister
Mismatched filters can starve the engine or weep at the seal. Use the part number for your engine code. If a strap wrench crushed the can, replace the filter—don’t try to run it and hope for the best.
Overfilling The Sump
Too much oil can aerate and trigger warning lights. If you overshoot, use a clean siphon pump through the dipstick tube to pull a little out, then recheck the level.
Skipping The Washer
Reusing a dead crush washer often leads to a slow spot on the garage floor. Keep a small bag of the correct washers in your toolbox so you’re never tempted to reuse one.
Cleanup And Responsible Disposal
Let used oil cool in the drain pan, then pour it into a clean, sealed jug. Most parts stores and local waste programs accept it at no charge. Do not pour it down a drain or onto soil. The EPA used oil guidance explains safe handling and where it can be recycled. Bag the old filter and bring it along; many centers recycle filters once they’re fully drained.
Extra Tips For A Smooth Job
- Warm, Not Hot: Aim for oil that’s warm to the touch. Scalding oil drains fast but can burn you.
- Gasket Prep: A thin film of fresh oil on the new filter’s gasket helps it seat evenly.
- Clean Pour: Place the funnel on a rag to catch drips when you lift it away.
- Undertray Drip Shield: If your skid plate traps oil, line it with paper towels before reassembly.
- Watch The First Drive: After the test drive, park on clean cardboard for ten minutes and scan for spots.
What To Do With The Old Oil And Filter
Many auto parts chains and municipal depots accept used oil from home mechanics. Keep different fluids separate—mixing coolant or brake fluid may disqualify the load. If you’re unsure where to take it, your city or county website usually lists household hazardous waste options, and the EPA page above links out to regional programs.
Quick Reference Checklist
Before you put the tools away, run through this list:
- Drain plug installed with a fresh washer and torqued
- New filter installed and wiped clean at the base
- Correct amount of fresh oil added and level verified
- Undertray reinstalled; no loose clips or bolts
- Service reminder reset and mileage noted
- Used oil sealed in a jug; filter bagged for recycling
Why DIY Oil Service Pays Off
You gain control over the parts, the exact oil grade, and the torque on every fastener. You also get a quick look at the underside: boots, hoses, and belts. Spotting a seep or a loose shield early prevents bigger headaches later. With basic tools and the right information, a clean, leak-free oil service is a satisfying piece of maintenance you can repeat, season after season.